Posts tagged Betta
Marina Betta Kit Zen Theme LARGE 2L Reviews
Jun 7th
Marina Betta Kit Zen Theme LARGE 2L
- Marina Beta Kit
- Just add fish and water
- Calming small 2L (.5g) decor beta tank
Marina Betta Kit These kits are perfect for the entry level aquarist. They are user-friendly and include all you need to get started. Clean cubic lines and contemporary styles make the Betta Kits attractive and appealing to the eye. Not only is it a great home for your betta fish, its a beautiful addition to your home or office decor. Features: Inexpensive to maintain and comes with everything you need (except the fish) Can be wall mounted or displayed on any flat surface Includes: Betta cube, 3
Rating: 
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List Price: $ 19.98
Price: $ 8.58
RElated Fish Information so Fish me Today
Marina Light Unit 7W Suitable for Betta Kits Goldfish Kits & Small Pals – Marina 13415
Jan 26th
Marina Light Unit 7W Suitable for Betta Kits Goldfish Kits & Small Pals – Marina 13415
Marina Light Unit 7W Suitable for Betta Kits Goldfish Kits & Small Pals – Marina 13415.
Rating: (out of reviews)
List Price:
Price: $ 8.00
RElated Fish Information so Fish me Today
How to Set up a Betta Fish Aquarium
Nov 26th
How to Set up a Betta Fish Aquarium
How to Set up a Betta Fish Aquarium
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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > How to Set up a Betta Fish Aquarium
How to Set up a Betta Fish Aquarium
Posted: Nov 01, 2009 |Comments: 0
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Aquarium Size
Betta Fish Aquariums usually vary in size, ranging from small fish bowls to bigger, full-sized aquariums. To fully comprehend the requirements of a betta, we must look at their natural environment as a basis. Bettas come from the slow moving streams, ponds, and rice paddies of Asia. And those conditions should be replicated in order to effectively rear bettas. So, to mimic those conditions, Betta fish tanks should range from 5 to 10 gal.
You can get a larger aquarium, if you’d like. Your betta will not complain. There really isn’t an upper limit to the aquarium size, if you provide enough hiding places, but too little space will shorten the life span of your betta at best, and at worst will create conditions under which it will simply not survive.
A larger, 5 to 10 gallon tank would be beneficial to both you and the betta, since the temperature in a bigger body of water tends to be more stable and would only change slightly when ambient temperature changes. The bigger tank would also benefit you since that means less frequent water changes. Contrary to popular belief, larger aquariums are much easier to take care of than small ones.
Aquarium Water
With the size of the tank out of the way, we need to settle the other aspects of our betta fish aquarium. The type of water is vital to a betta’s survival. Using distilled water isn’t the best for bettas because of the filtering process that removes most minerals in the water. Tap water is usually sufficient for bettas, provided that you treat the water to remove chlorine and let it sit for over 24 hours before adding it to your tank.
When you first buy the tank, let the water sit for a few weeks to get the biological filter cycle started.
Aquarium Filters
Filtering the water could also be an issue. Bettas are quite used to the tranquil or slow moving water in ponds and rice paddies, which means that using a high flow filter inside your betta fish aquarium is not advised. These types of filters will cause too much turbulence and the betta would find it stressful to come up to the surface to catch a breath (Bettas have a specialized organ called a labyrinth that allows them to breathe air).
Aquarium Heater
When you buy a heater for your aquarium, make sure to also get a thermometer. You will need to monitor the water temperature carefully, because sudden fluctuations can be deadly for your betta. Choosing the right heater will depend on the tank size as well as the temperature of the room where you will keep the aquarium. And even if you buy a high quality heater, you will probably have to replace it every year, so monitor it closely and replace it right away if it stops working.
Aquarium Gravel
You must also obtain a natural looking substrate or gravel to put inside your betta fish aquarium. Taking gravel from your backyard simply isn’t going to be the best reproduction of its natural milieu. You must also sustain the tank’s temperature to closely resemble their native climate of more or less 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Final Thoughts
Building appropriate betta fish aquariums is not that difficult a task. The first thing is to have a tank that is satisfactory in size. Keep in mind though that the suggested size is for one betta fish. If you would like to add a compatible fish, you may have to upgrade your tank’s size so that they can be properly accommodated.
Aside from the proper size of a betta fish aquarium, you must also learn how to maintain the right levels of ammonia, nitrites, and pH. This is important so the water doesn’t become lethal to your betta.
Before actually bringing your betta home, give yourself enough time to test all your equipment – the filter, the heater, etc. Make sure that the water as well as the entire set up is what it needs to be before introducing your fish to it. Number one mistake of new aquarium owners is trying to do too many things at once.
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Mischa Hill -
About the Author:
Mischa Hill is a Betta fish enthusiast. His website compares prices on a large selection of betta fish aquariums. Visit his site also for betta fish care tips, price comparisons on betta fish supplies, remedies, books and more. Also, sign up for FREE Mini-Course on Betta fish care.
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Mischa Hill is a Betta fish enthusiast. His website compares prices on a large selection of betta fish aquariums. Visit his site also for betta fish care tips, price comparisons on betta fish supplies, remedies, books and more. Also, sign up for FREE Mini-Course on Betta fish care.
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Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
Nov 8th
Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
Posted: Nov 18, 2006 |Comments: 0
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Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
By: Carl Strohmeyer
About the Author
By Carl Strohmeyer
http://americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumProducts.html
http://aquarium-answers.blogspot.com/
(ArticlesBase SC #74196)
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
Bettas are simple to keep, beautiful, and make great and interactive aquatic pets. A betta fish is probably the most ideal fish for a bowl or small aquarium available. Bettas also take up little space and are inexpensive purchase and to keep.
There just a few basics to keeping bettas:
Housing (Tank/bowl);
I recommend at least a ½ gallon (2 liter) bowl, although plenty of aquarists are successful with smaller bowls. Your large pea sized gravel or glass marbles for ease of cleaning. A small plastic plant or even a sprig of live anacharis makes a good plant decoration (make sure there is lighting overhead or the bowl is near a window for the plant to thrive). A ceramic ornament is nice too.
Feeding;
A quality food with aquatic based proteins such as whole fish meal is essential. Sanyu makes an excellent pellet food. A supplement with FD, frozen or even live brine shrimp is good, along with frozen or FD bloodworms.
Soak pellets for a few minute to prevent air from being trapped inside the food and causing intestinal problems for your betta. I recommend feeding two pellets twice a day, but three once per day is fine. If your room cools much below 70 F, you may want to feed every other day. For more about feeding, please see this article: “Quality Fish Food; What ingredients are needed for proper fish nutrition, health and growth”
Filtration:
Sponge filters excel as small tank or bowl filters, for a betta, there is no better filter in my opinion. They are excellent bio filters and good mechanical filters in small aquaria.
As for under gravel filters, there are small ones made for bowls or small tanks, but they take more maintenance than sponge filters (debris tends to collect under the plate). UGFs are more difficult to clean in small aquaria, as they are best maintained by vacuuming, which is difficult in bowls or small tanks.
Heating:
A temperature between 70 and 80 F is best.
For a bowl this is not really possible, just try and keep your bowl in a warm room of your house. If this is not possible, here are a few suggestions: An infrared reptile heat lamp works great placed in a desk lamp near your betta with a small thermometer in the bowl to know how to distance your heat lamp. If your have several, place your bowls in a Rubbermaid dish basin with a small submersible heater.
In a small tank (5 gallon or larger), purchase a 25 watt heater.
Cleaning;
Change water at least weekly. In a bowl, I gently dip the betta out of the bowl with some water, then swirl the bowl marbles or gravel around and dispose of most of the remaining water. Then de-chlorinate the water with Start Right or a similar product and make sure the water is the same temperature as the water containing your betta. After this, add your betta back slowly and gently, including some of the water your fish is in.
Another suggestion that I feel very strongly about for bettas kept in a bowl without a filter, is the use of Wonder Shells for the addition of necessary electrolytes, calcium, to aid in bowl clarity, and even chlorine removal (no need of a de-chlorinator then).
Illness:
With good care, hopefully this will not be much of a problem. But when an illness arises there are less options due to the small size of most betta housing. A few potential treatments for bettas: Methylene blue for parasite, fungus or bacteria (do not use in filtered tanks); Malachite Green for parasites (ich); Melafix, Pimafix or Usnea Lichen for organic anit-bacterial or fungal; Triple sulfa and Kanamycin are god antibiotics to use in bowls.
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By Carl Strohmeyer
http://americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumProducts.html
http://aquarium-answers.blogspot.com/
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Betta splendens- The ultimate tropical fish
Nov 6th
Betta splendens- The ultimate tropical fish
The Betta splendens or by its common name Siamese Fighting-Fish is a beautiful hardy tropical fish. This Siamese Fighting-Fish is from the Mekong river basin in Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia (South-East Asia). Usually lives in shallow waters with little water movement, like Rice-Paddies. In nature, this specie’s males have shorter fins that those we usually see in shops, these are called by the Thai “Plakad” (meaning- “Fighter”), and are used in Thailand for show-fights (just like roosters). Although their fins are short, they are still bigger than those of females. These males are more aggressive than long-finned males, but they are less susceptible to infectious diseases and have faster ability to recover after fights. Of the long-finned strains, there’s the most known Veil-tail, which are the commonest in shops. More appreciated tail forms are the Round-tail, Fantail, and Delta-tail. All these tail forms can appear in two fin forms- Double-tail and Comb/Crown-tail. Double-tail has a long dorsal fin, and their caudal fin is variably divided to two lobes. Comb-tail has fin rays that grow variably longer that the fin’s soft tissue, resembling a comb. Crown-tail is a Comb-tail with equal and symmetric lengths of fin rays and soft tissue. Another famous strain and probably the most famous is the Half-moon. This is a fin form, appearing mostly on Delta-tails, in which the caudal fin is spread to 180o, while flaring. Aside of it, the fish must have other criteria to be considered as a true Half-moon.
Aside from tail forms, these fish come in all colors and patterns. In nature, they have a black body, with turquoise/blue/steel-blue iridescent on it, and red washes on it fins. The first color strain produced was called Cambodian, with clear-pinkish body and red fins. By today, with further understanding the fish’s genetics, we have Solid colored fish, in the colors of Red, Non-red Yellow, Black, White, Orange, Royal-blue, Steel-blue, Turquoise and the newest- Copper. Then comes the Bi-colors, mostly Cambodians and Iridescent with red or yellow washes on their fins. And along side with these, come the Tri-colored, also known as Multi-colored, mainly containing the colors- Clear + Iridescent + Red. Patterns have also developed, from the “solid” regulars, we’ve got to Variegated-fins (the most appreciated is the known Butterfly), and Marbled (which can change their color patterns throughout their life). Every breeder give different names to the strain lines they create, one of these, most known, is the Mustard-Gas created by Jude Als. By looking at all the colors, patterns and tail and fin forms, it is easy to see why this fish is probably one of the most known and popular freshwater fishes. The betta is a carnivore fish in its natural habitat; it eats mainly insect larvae, small crustaceans and other aquatic invertebrates. The fish is mostly accustomed to dry commercial foods, so will have no problem with these foods- make sure it is mainly meaty foods. In out fish tank the fish is mainly calm, and might be shay in community aquariums at start, once settled it will get active. Males and females are aggressive towards each other. In long-finned cultivated strains, females tend to be more aggressive than males. Males will always fight over territory and might kill one another. The betta is durable to low water conditions, though; long-finned strains are more susceptible to high amounts of nitrogen compounds in water and will quickly suffer from fin-rot, dropsy and other illnesses. In large aquariums these fish need good filtration system with low to moderate water flow. If water flow is too strong, the fish will settle in a spot where flow is lowest and will hardly move from it. When kept in a jar, water should be changed every week- the amount of water changed, depends on the jar’s volume. Some people buy dry leafs of a tree called Ketapang/Indian Almond-tree (Terminalia katappa) and insert them to the fish’s jar. It is said to help preventing infectious diseases and getting the fish into breeding-mood. When feeding these fish, avoid over-feeding, as these fish tend to gorge itself, which might end up in a bloated fish suffering from deadly incurable Enlarged-leaver.
This Betta species is a Bubble-nest builder. There are many ways to set up a breeding aquarium for the pair, and not enough room to supply details on them all. There are two popular ways to breed the Siamese Fighting-fish- in an aquarium specially set for the pair, which should be at a volume of at least 20 liters (5.2 gallons), and the Thai-way, which uses large Plant-pots. In any of these ways, the fish must be conditioned well before introducing the pair. Conditioning is made by feeding the fish live or frozen foods about two to three times a day, and making frequent water changes. Conditioning should take about two weeks at least, and can take up to one month, depending on the food quality and water temperature. The breeding set-up, in both ways, should contain lots of hiding places for the female, and some floating plants for the male to build its nest. If floating plants aren’t available, you can use a halved Styrofoam-cup. Water temperature at the breeding set-up should be in the range of 28-30oC (82.4-86oF/ 301-303oK), and it is advisable to place a tight fitting glass-cover on top, so that the air above water will be hot and humid. Using an aquarium, the female is usually placed in a clear chamber, so that the male can see her, but can’t touch her. Once the male has built his bubble-nest, he will start courting the female. For those of you, who placed the female in a chamber, release her only after she presents the following signs- swimming with and toward the male (instead of trying to escape), showing white vertical bars on her body (instead of two black lateral lines, which display fear), pacing her head down and swimming towards the male by moving her body from side to side. The last sign usually appears after the female is released, so seeing it isn’t obligatory before introducing the pair. Mostly, after the female is released, the male will attack her- do not panic, these fish like it rough, and this is why hiding places are very important. Once the male and female are ready to spawn, the female will follow the male under the nest, where he will wrap her with his body. These first embraces are usually called Test-embraces, and are used to confirm that there is a match between the male and female.
After several embraces, the male will freeze in the embraces, and the pair will stay still for a couple of seconds. Afterwards, the male will swim down to collect the eggs, while the female usually remains frozen and floats to the surface. Some females will collect the eggs after “awaking” and will place the m in the nest, others simply eat them. Once the male collects the eggs, he will coat them with saliva, and places them inside the nest. After mating is complete, the male usually attacks the female and chases her away; this is a good time to remove her from the breeding set-up. The male will tend the eggs, and the larvae that will hatch within the next 24-36 hours, picking up any egg and fry that will fall from the nest and placing them back in it. After about 48 more hours, the fry start swimming freely, at this point, remove the male as well. Once the male is out, it’s time to insert an air-operated sponge-filter (the filter must run for about two weeks before spawning in a well established aquarium!!!) and to feed the fry. First foods which are suitable for fry as small as these, are Infusorians (mostly Paramecium), Green-water, Powdered dry foods and liquid fry foods. Another way to supplement the fry’s diet is by using Java-moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri) in the aquarium (this plant is also essential as a hideout for the female!)- This plant provides a substrate for a rich Micro-fauna of microscopic creatures, which supply addition to the fry’s diet. The fry should be fed about two to three times a day, be careful not to over feed them, as ammonia is the second fry killer (first is hunger). Once the fry are about a week old, you can start adding Micro-worms to their diet, and after another week adding BBS (baby brine-shrimps). Make sure you change the water frequently, using a gentle siphon. Siphon the bottom to take out any uneaten foods, and turn the hose to a bucket; so that any fry siphoned, will be found and returned to the aquarium. It is important to return the fry to the aquarium before adding the new water in. Adding the water should be done gently, you may use an air-hose to do that. Mostly in about 1.5 cm (0.59 inches) of size, you will be able to tell the males apart; their ventral fins will look pointier and larger, and they are mostly more aggressive. The fish usually reach sexual maturity in an age of about 3 months, and then can be moved to their new owners.
for more free information visit us at: Aquariumpassion.com
Rotem Gavish is a fish expert. Dedicating his life to this beautiful hobby, his expertise is in all related to aquarium world such as tropical fish, fish tank, marine fish, plants and invertebrates. Rotem established his site with the vision of sharing tips and free information.
My new 40 gallon acrylic planted aquarium. Remodeled with more eco-complete and six more plant species. Upgraded to T5HO lighting. Type – Fresh water tropical planted aquarium Tank – SeaClear 40 Gallon Acrylic Filter – EHEIM Classic 2213 Canister + Hydro Sponge II on the intake Heater – EHEIM Jager 100W Air pump – Rena 300 Lighting – AquaticLife T5HO 36″ 2x39W Fresh Water Substrate – Eco-complete x3 Plants – Anubias hastifolia, Anubias Nana, Java Moss, Java Fern, Anacharis, Lilly, Cabomba caroliniana “Green Cabomba”, Cardamine lyrata “Chinese Ivy”, Hygrophila difformis “Water Wisteria” Water Spirit, Dwarf Baby Tears, Pellia, Lloydiella, Myriophyllum Tuberculatum (red), Ludwigia Ovalis Fish – Soon will have some.
Video Rating: 4 / 5
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TOM Aquarium Accessories Betta Security House with Lid – 4 compartments
Sep 2nd
TOM Aquarium Accessories Betta Security House with Lid – 4 compartments
- Betta security house
- Accommodates up to 4 bettas
- Ample slots for ideal water circulation
- Ideal for dividing pregnant or aggressive fish.
TOM TM1086 Aquarium Accessories Betta Security House with Lid – 4 compartments. KollerCraft is highly regarded for supplying superior quality, innovative pet products and reliable service. This betta security house will accommodate up to 4 bettas. Comes with a lid to keep the fish securely in their individual compartments. Silicon suction cups which result in stronger tank adhesion. There are also ample slots for ideal water circulation. Removable smoky dividers, which reduce the Betta’s a
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Sponge Filters for Use in Betta Tanks or Bowls
Jun 29th
Sponge Filters for Use in Betta Tanks or Bowls
Question:
I am looking for a filter for my small betta tank, it is about 3 gallons. I have been told that sponge filters are a good filter here, but I also was told about under gravel filters. Also are there differences in brands?
Answer:
Sponge filters excel as small tank or bowl filters, they fit nicely in small spaces and are cheap to own and maintain. For a betta, there is no better filter in my opinion. They are excellent bio filters and good mechanical filters in small aquaria.
In fact, a sponge filter is probably the best choice of filtration for breeding tanks, Betta tanks or bowls, hospital tanks, and even discus aquariums, due to the fact that they do not “suck” in baby or weak fish or attract noxious bacteria.
These are also simple filters to clean, simply remove the sponge, rinse in de-chlorinated tap water or used tank water (to throw out after cleaning), then squeeze the sponge several times until clean (usually takes less than a minute).
Sponge filters are one of the best biological (and unfortunately most under rated) filters in the hobby that is often driven by anecdotal evidence. One myth, Bio Wheels and Wet Dry filters are superior to sponge filters is not true when one moves from theory to actual tests and evidence.
In theory the added oxygen or bio wheels and wet dry filters is great, but in practicality the channeling of wet dry filters and the deposit build up of Bio Wheels lowers bacteria surface area, while the fact remains that with the proper dissolved oxygen levels your fish should have is more than adequate for a healthy sponge filter to maintain proper bio colonies. I have performed side by side tests with sponge filters in my service business and the sponge filters out performed the bio wheels when ammonia spikes were measured.
As for under gravel filters, there are small ones made for bowls or small tanks, but they take more maintenance than sponge filters (debris tends to collect under the plate). UGFs are more difficult to clean in small aquaria, as they are best maintained by vacuuming, which is difficult in bowls or small tanks.
The brand sponge filter I would recommend is the Hydro Sponge Filter by ATI (Lustar), they hold the best patents for sponge filters and have many patent infringements to prove it. The sponge material used by Hydro Sponge can trap vastly more aerobic nitrifying bacteria (for ammonia, nitrite removal) than their nearest rival. I have used many others (including homemade) and they are not the same.
A good place to purchase these filters is American Aquarium Products- Sponge Filters .
For a more in depth article about sponge filtration see: Sponge filtration; How sponge filters work and the benefits of using sponge filters in aquariums and ponds.
CONCLUSION:
Even though Bettas are Labyrinth fish (this organ enables bettas to get the oxygen they need from the air), they still do best with an environment where they can get the oxygen from the water. Also, Bettas are just as susceptible as other fish to water parameters such as high ammonia or nitrates, which is where a small sponge filter connected to an air pump comes in. I will also note from my experience that Bettas are MORE sensitive than many other fish to lack of electrolytes in the water (the Sponge Filter does nothing for this, however water changes and/or Wonder shells.
For my Full article with more links and information, please visit this article:
Sponge filter; Proper filter for a small betta tank or bowl.
By Carl Stohmeyer
A video description of my filter here is where i got my overflow box For those that dont know what a over flow box is u can check out this video if u want to know more www.youtube.com what a over flow box does is : 1. the water that is pumped from the sump tank (in the video the tank that is on the floor) fills up the aquarium 2. if there was no way to return the water pumped from the sump tank the main aquarium would over flow with water (this is where the overflow-box comes in) 3. The over flow box skims the water of the surface (if u dont know how this works get familiar with the design of an over flow box) and uses a siphon to pull the water over the edge of the aquarium glass 4. this water then falls back to the sump tank(where it gets filtered, heated and carbonated [co2 injection]) and the process repeats with the pump in the sump tank pumping water in back up to the main aquarium
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