Posts tagged Filtration
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals 725A Bio-Chem Zorb Filtration Medium for SmartFilter Aquarium Filters, 10 oz. Pouch
Jun 8th
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals 725A Bio-Chem Zorb Filtration Medium for SmartFilter Aquarium Filters, 10 oz. Pouch
- Ultimate filtration medium for crystal clear water
- Removes organic aquarium pollutants
- Removes colors, odors, heavy metals and toxic gases
- Also removes light blocking impurities for improved growth of corals and plants
- For salt or fresh water aquariums
The ultimate filtration medium for crystal clear water. Bio-Chem Zorb removes organic aquarium pollutants, including colors, odors, heavy metals and toxic gases as well as other compounds that carbon alone cannot remove. Bio-Chem Zorb also removes light blocking impurities for improved growth of corals in saltwater and plants in freshwater aquariums.
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List Price: $ 7.57
Price: $ 5.90
Tetra Whisper Aquarium Fish Tank In Tank Filter 10 Gal
| US $21.95 End Date: Sunday Feb-05-2012 6:40:33 PST Buy It Now for only: US $21.95 Buy it now | Add to watch list |
JEBO Aquarium Filter Water Submersible Pump 18w 820 L/H
| US $9.29 End Date: Sunday Feb-05-2012 6:40:46 PST Buy It Now for only: US $9.29 Buy it now | Add to watch list |
RElated Fish Information so Fish me Today
Rena 745C Bio-Chem Zorb Filtration Cartridge for SmartFilter Aquarium Filters (Pack of 12)
Jun 3rd
Rena 745C Bio-Chem Zorb Filtration Cartridge for SmartFilter Aquarium Filters (Pack of 12)
- Ultimate filtration medium for crystal clear water
- Removes organic aquarium pollutants
- Removes colors, odors, heavy metals and toxic gases
- Also removes light blocking impurities for improved growth of corals in saltwater and plants in freshwater aquariums
- Pack of 12 cartridges
The ultimate filtration medium for crystal clear water. Bio-Chem Zorb removes organic aquarium pollutants, including colors, odors, heavy metals and toxic gases as well as other compounds that carbon alone cannot remove. Bio-Chem Zorb also removes light blocking impurities for improved growth of corals in saltwater and plants in freshwater aquariums.
Rating:
(out of reviews)
List Price: $ 29.69
Price: $ 29.59
Tetra Whisper Aquarium Fish Tank In Tank Filter 10 Gal
| US $21.95 End Date: Sunday Feb-05-2012 6:40:33 PST Buy It Now for only: US $21.95 Buy it now | Add to watch list |
JEBO Aquarium Filter Water Submersible Pump 18w 820 L/H
| US $9.29 End Date: Sunday Feb-05-2012 6:40:46 PST Buy It Now for only: US $9.29 Buy it now | Add to watch list |
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RElated Fish Information so Fish me Today
Aquarium Filtration – 3 Common Procedures Explained
Jan 16th
Aquarium Filtration – 3 Common Procedures Explained
Aquarium Filtration – 3 Common Procedures Explained
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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Aquarium Filtration – 3 Common Procedures Explained
Aquarium Filtration – 3 Common Procedures Explained
Posted: Jan 26, 2009 |Comments: 0
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Filtration is a essential requirement when you have an aquarium. It takes out the unwanted chemicals, pollutants and such elements and stores them in the in built filter. The filters of course need to be periodically cleaned or replaced when the time comes.
1. The Mechanical Method
This method aims at arresting the particles of grime floating in the water. The particles should be large enough to get blocked by the filter. When the particles try and pass through the filter areas, they are trapped there and so the water is thus purified of these impure particles. When the saturation level of the filter is reached its capsule needs to be cleaned out with the intervention of the user. The common filter material used in such a category is the polyester fiber, and again this comes in a variety of sub categories. They include the woven type, the fluffy type, the pad type, pressured ones and so forth. Each of them works on the same principle of arresting the larger floating particles of dirt. Such filters include the foam type accessories as well. The spongy foam infuses into the water and cleanse it by capturing the dirt particles.
2. Chemical Filters
These work on the science aspect behind the molecules. The filters are arranged using logic, into simple counter parts. Charcoal is a common material used in many chemical filter processes. Chemical filtrations are successful in cleansing a large percentage of water in your aquarium. These processes (such as using charcoal) trap the smallest of physical particles that one can see floating around in the water, and the process if more efficient than the mechanical. Therefore it is the favorite among home users. To ensure that maximum particles are filtered without over working any filter, many people choose to use the mechanical filter as well as a chemical filter in their aquariums. But make sure you do not rely solely on filters t keep your fish tank clean – it needs your care and attention nevertheless.
3. Bio Filters
This is probably the most important of all filtration methods you will come across. This works on the root level and cleanses the tank of particles invisible to the human eye, and ones that are not removed by the other two processes mentioned above (chemical and mechanical). It is not so simple to understand either but let us say this filtration procedure is the most efficient. It is effective in removing the microscopic elements from your tank water, such as bacteria, ammonia, nitrates and the likes of those. It takes out the undesired elements and replaces them with the desirable. For example it may take out bacteria and replace it with a desirable quantity of nitrite. Fish do produce both nitrates as well as ammonia and they are not harmful to the fish but do contaminate water.
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Abhishek is an avid Fish Lover and he has got some great Aquarium Care Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 105 Pages Ebook, “Aquarium Care Made Easy!” from his website http://www.Wonder-Homes.com/636/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.
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Abhishek is an avid Fish Lover and he has got some great Aquarium Care Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 105 Pages Ebook, “Aquarium Care Made Easy!” from his website http://www.Wonder-Homes.com/636/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.
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Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
Nov 8th
Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
Posted: Nov 18, 2006 |Comments: 0
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Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
By: Carl Strohmeyer
About the Author
By Carl Strohmeyer
http://americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumProducts.html
http://aquarium-answers.blogspot.com/
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Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – Betta Care; Housing, Filtration, Feeding, Heating, Cleaning and Illness
Bettas are simple to keep, beautiful, and make great and interactive aquatic pets. A betta fish is probably the most ideal fish for a bowl or small aquarium available. Bettas also take up little space and are inexpensive purchase and to keep.
There just a few basics to keeping bettas:
Housing (Tank/bowl);
I recommend at least a ½ gallon (2 liter) bowl, although plenty of aquarists are successful with smaller bowls. Your large pea sized gravel or glass marbles for ease of cleaning. A small plastic plant or even a sprig of live anacharis makes a good plant decoration (make sure there is lighting overhead or the bowl is near a window for the plant to thrive). A ceramic ornament is nice too.
Feeding;
A quality food with aquatic based proteins such as whole fish meal is essential. Sanyu makes an excellent pellet food. A supplement with FD, frozen or even live brine shrimp is good, along with frozen or FD bloodworms.
Soak pellets for a few minute to prevent air from being trapped inside the food and causing intestinal problems for your betta. I recommend feeding two pellets twice a day, but three once per day is fine. If your room cools much below 70 F, you may want to feed every other day. For more about feeding, please see this article: “Quality Fish Food; What ingredients are needed for proper fish nutrition, health and growth”
Filtration:
Sponge filters excel as small tank or bowl filters, for a betta, there is no better filter in my opinion. They are excellent bio filters and good mechanical filters in small aquaria.
As for under gravel filters, there are small ones made for bowls or small tanks, but they take more maintenance than sponge filters (debris tends to collect under the plate). UGFs are more difficult to clean in small aquaria, as they are best maintained by vacuuming, which is difficult in bowls or small tanks.
Heating:
A temperature between 70 and 80 F is best.
For a bowl this is not really possible, just try and keep your bowl in a warm room of your house. If this is not possible, here are a few suggestions: An infrared reptile heat lamp works great placed in a desk lamp near your betta with a small thermometer in the bowl to know how to distance your heat lamp. If your have several, place your bowls in a Rubbermaid dish basin with a small submersible heater.
In a small tank (5 gallon or larger), purchase a 25 watt heater.
Cleaning;
Change water at least weekly. In a bowl, I gently dip the betta out of the bowl with some water, then swirl the bowl marbles or gravel around and dispose of most of the remaining water. Then de-chlorinate the water with Start Right or a similar product and make sure the water is the same temperature as the water containing your betta. After this, add your betta back slowly and gently, including some of the water your fish is in.
Another suggestion that I feel very strongly about for bettas kept in a bowl without a filter, is the use of Wonder Shells for the addition of necessary electrolytes, calcium, to aid in bowl clarity, and even chlorine removal (no need of a de-chlorinator then).
Illness:
With good care, hopefully this will not be much of a problem. But when an illness arises there are less options due to the small size of most betta housing. A few potential treatments for bettas: Methylene blue for parasite, fungus or bacteria (do not use in filtered tanks); Malachite Green for parasites (ich); Melafix, Pimafix or Usnea Lichen for organic anit-bacterial or fungal; Triple sulfa and Kanamycin are god antibiotics to use in bowls.
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By Carl Strohmeyer
http://americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumProducts.html
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By Carl Strohmeyer
http://americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumProducts.html
http://aquarium-answers.blogspot.com/
Find More Aquarium Filter Sponge Articles
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Know the perfect filtration system for your fish tank
Oct 23rd
Know the perfect filtration system for your fish tank
Among many important mechanical devices for the best quality fish tanks, the choice of best fit filtration system is the most cardinal. This water regulating system is of due importance because it is the key mechanism which provides a natural and healthy environment to fish. One can imagine its importance from the fact that it is almost impossible to keep tropical fish like goldfish as a pet without filtration.
Don’t ever think that choosing a filtration system will be just a jack play. It is a daunting job because it needs the choice of the best from a variety of procedures and this may result in nothing but mere confusions. On the other hand one can’t ignore it at all because the success of aquarium depends wholly on the effectiveness of filtration system. That is the main reason it is always taken as crucial when it comes to the quality of aquarium. Three different types of filtration system need special concerns and profound knowledge before choosing a filtration system for the fish tank. A brief description to them all is;
1. The most basic filtration: mechanical filtration
This system is basically a simple one. With this filtration process, one can get rid of all the debris and toxic particles present in the water. In response to how it works? It works by just passing the water through foam or other spongy material into the tank. This material filters by trapping the debris and not allowing them enter into the tank. This technique may fail to filter for a longer time due to backing up so it is quite necessary to replace the sponge regularly.
2. The most effective type, biological filtration:
This is the most suitable and most effective filtration system for most of the fish tank types. This technique includes the working of bacteria. The reason for the use of the bacterial colonies is to process the toxic wastes of the fish and turn them to relatively lower or no harmful material. Ammonia and nitrite combinations are transformed into lesser toxic compounds of nitrates. The one and only thing, the tank requires for the induction of this beneficial bacteria bed is going through a chemical process known as ‘nitrogen cycle’ and you are all done. It must be clear by now that how much the process of biological filtration is grades worth for a perfect aquarium is and the importance of nitrogen cycle as the backbone of the whole technique. One can easily enhance ones knowledge regarding the functioning and effects of nitrogen cycle by visiting the site ratemyfishtank.com/articles/53.
3. Chemical filtration- the dissolved wastes removal technique:
This process is relatively better in performance and includes organic compounds as basic filtrates. The whole process is the running of tank water through activated carbon. Acting just like a foam, the porous or spongy structure of activated carbon helps in separating the wastes of compounds of phosphates by dissolving them in itself. A plus to the efficiency is removal of pinching odor of ammonia. This method in a broader sense is a water purifying technique and has nothing to do with the health of fish but of course it has an indirect impact on their survival compatibilities. An icing on the cake for using this modern technique would be the removal of medications and probable diseases from the water of the aquarium. Thus is highly recommended to use this technique for recycling purposes especially when you feel there had been some sorts of diseases in the water.
The choice of right filtration system depends upon many factors. It mostly depends upon the size of the aquarium, the expected and meet able cost of the tank and processes and the need of the most utilizable technique of filtration for the water and tank. Adding to it almost all filtration systems allow the induction of a separate filtration unit to them. Thus it is quite easier to modify the filtration technique according to the requirements. The qualities of each of them go into their pros and cons.
Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. His famous digital book <a target=”_new” rel=”nofollow” onclick=”javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link']);” href=”http://www.goldfishcaretips.com”>Secrets on Keeping Beautiful Goldfish</a>, offers simple, easy to follow instruction for raising healthy, long-living goldfish. Visit his website http://www.goldfishcaretips.com to learn more about expertly raising your goldfish and to receive your FREE copy of his special report, <a target=”_new” rel=”nofollow” onclick=”javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link']);” href=”http://www.goldfishcaretips.com”>Fish-Keeping Hobby Secrets Revealed</a>
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Looking Into A Filtration System For Your Fish Tank
Oct 22nd
Looking Into A Filtration System For Your Fish Tank
Filtration systems are essential in aquarium and fish care. Filtration systems strain out chemicals, and pollutions, which the filtration process passes through, or puts the chemicals and contaminants in a filter. The filters are then cleaned or replaced by human hands.
Mechanical filtration
Mechanical filtration physically works to trap particles of grime, which are suspended in matters throughout water. The particles are suspended and are incapable of passing through fibres or pores of a filtration medium. Mechanical filtration systems take care of the problem by removing the particles from the tank. At this point, the human hand must clean or replace the filters. Mechanical filtration includes the polyester fibers, which come in a variety of packages. The polyester mechanical filtration systems typically include pads, fluffs, woven, pressed fibers, and so on. The accessories enable the mechanical filtration to act as a cleanser and/or replacement by trapping larger dirt particles. Mechanical filtration also includes foam accessories. The foam sponges are blocking aids that infuse water, thus suspending the water into matters.
In addition to the mechanical filtration systems, you have the choice of chemical filtration. Chemical filtration relates to the science of molecules, in that the filters are logically organized into simpler counterparts. Activated charcoal is one of the most commonly used chemical filtration systems. The chemical filtration system will remove a large volume of pollutants. Absorbance through the activated charcoal process traps the smallest physically possible units of chemicals. In addition to the charcoal brands is the carbon filtration. Carbon filtration is one of the most liked filters used in homes, fish tanks, etc. The filters will remove a large volume of contaminants, as well as deliver clear waters. Most people purchased a carbon filtration combined with the mechanical filtrations. However, the modern mechanical filtration systems integrate the carbon filters into its device. It is recommended however that you do not rely on carbon filters to maintain your tank. You still must uphold your responsibility.
Biological filtration
Biological filtration is the single most important filtering system you will need to maintain aquarium and fish care. Biological filtration, also called biofiltration will remove unnatural and natural particles from tank water that is left unnoticed by the human eye, carbon filtration, and mechanical filtration. The filtration system will replace removed particles when finished. Biofiltration is difficult to understand, since fish make up biological filtration, which remove and replace microscopic pores and contaminants in a bio-medium environment. Fish rely on biochemical filtration. The Biofiltration systems will remove unwarranted nitrates, ammonia, bacteria, nitrates, etc. Bacteria is removed, yet replaced with nitrites, i.e. a healthy volume of nitrites. NOTE: Fish produce naturally, both ammonia and nitrates, which is non-toxic to the fish, yet toxic to non-fish.
Mechanical, chemical, and biofiltration include the internal, external, and under-gravel systems. You want to learn more about each system. The under-gravel system is one of the least desired, yet it works wonders with the internal and external filtration systems. The external filtration systems are the choice systems, since many today combine mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration systems respectively.
Filtration is essential in aquarium and fish care, since unfriendly waters produce bad fruits. For instance, if fish do not live in desired waters, it can affect their oxygen intake. In fact, chemical saturated waters can eliminate oxygen flow. The fish will die and your tank will stink. Therefore, learn more about filtration systems, how they work. As well, learn which systems are recommended. You can go online to view a variety of filtration systems, yet we recommend you consult with pet stores to make the right choice. You can find additional help online.
To learn about facts about sharks and black tip shark, visit the Types Of Sharks website.
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Filtration, Part One – An Introduction
Oct 20th
Filtration, Part One – An Introduction
There exists a wide range of different aquarium equipment in the aquarium trade, and knowing what to buy can be difficult. The subject of filtration is certainly no exception, and when you visit an aquarium shop you can usually find a vast array of various filtration equipments; from comparatively inexpensive sponge filters to pricy protein skimmers. Different types of aquarium will require different types of filtration, and your experience as an aquarist can also affect which type of filter that is ideal for you.
Another important question that you must ask your self is how much time and money you are prepared to spend, and how noise tolerant you and your family are. Do you have time to clean your filter very often, or do you need a filter system that pretty much take care of it self? Is it very important to you that the filter is silent, or is it okay to have a noisy filter system if you can save some money? You might be able to accept one type of filter for the aquarium in your garage, while a much more silent filter is necessary for the aquarium that you keep in your bed room.
By researching the various filter types before you start shopping for a filter, it will be much easier for you to determine what is best for your particular fish species, aquarium size and budget. This way, the risk of being lured in to purchasing a superfluous filter system will be decreased. The risk of getting a really cheap and low quality filter system that you are forced to replace after just a few months will also decrease.
As mentioned above, different aquariums will need different types of filtration. There is for instance a big difference between a saltwater aquarium and a freshwater aquarium. Not only are marine fish species typically more sensitive to poor water quality; the basic water chemistry in a saltwater aquarium is also different which means that other forms of filtration can be used, e.g. the popular protein skimmer. A small aquarium will also typically need more powerful filtration than a medium sized or large aquarium, since the water mass is very small and therefore not capable of diluting a lot of waste products.
Recommending a filter that is ideal for any aquarium regardless of size, flora and fauna, water chemistry etcetera is naturally impossible. It is therefore also impossible to answer general questions such as “How much should a filter cost for my first aquarium?” or “Do I have to get a protein skimmer for my saltwater aquarium?” Certain types of aquariums can even be kept using biological filtration only – mechanical and chemical filters are not mandatory in successful aquarium keeping. You can also lower the need for mechanical filtration by not keeping messy eaters, by removing any free floating debris by hand, by devoting time and effort to the development of a properly functioning semi-ecosystem, and by never overfeeding your fish or leaving left over food in the water. An aquarium is too small to form a perfectly balanced ecosystem, and you are constantly adding nutrition from outside the system, but you can obtain a form of semi-ecosystem that only requires biological filtration and regular water changes to function. Such a system is however delicate, and for the novice aquarist or the keeper of sensitive species, a combination of biological, mechanical and chemical filtration is usually necessary.
Allen Jesson writes for several sites including two sites that specialize in
salt
water and fresh water aquariums and the aquarium site and Seapets, a
leading source for aquariums
and fish tanks.
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A Clear Pond; Proper Pond Maintenance, Filtration, and Chemistry
Oct 17th
A Clear Pond; Proper Pond Maintenance, Filtration, and Chemistry
Keeping a clear pond in the warm or hot summer months involves these key ingredients for proper filtration:
[1] ADEQUATE WATER CIRCULATION AND MOVEMENT.
A general principle (not a rule) of about 50-200 gph per 100 gallons can work for this (A lower proportional gph for large ponds, a higher proportional gph for small ponds). This can be achieved with more than one pump and even a large aeration device (air stone). As for the air stone, I find they are excellent for vertical circulation, often better than water pumps of greater gph. A large double air pump such as a ReSun 9603, Million Air 600, Whisper 800, or Maxima with two air stones can circulate at a rate up to 500 gph. A way to check this is to place the air stone down a narrow PVC tube or aquarium lift tube, then place the top of the tube just above the water level and measure the rate the water fills up a gallon container (one gallon in 15 seconds= 240 gph).
A good water pump is the Via Aqua 2600, 3300 or 6500 hydrant pump. Both have sealed electromagnetic motors and ceramic shafts.
[2] GOOD FILTRATION.
I prefer pressurized pond filters such as the “Clear Stream” for their efficiency and ease of hiding in the ground. But there are many excellent filters available.
For small ponds (and even medium-large), large sponge filters are excellent bio filters and reasonable mechanical filters. They are inexpensive, easy to service, and simple to attach with either a power head pump or and air stone. There now is a specific Pond Sponge Filter called the”Hydro-Pond” there are two models; one air driven, one pump driven. They are useful up to 1500 gallons and more can be used for larger ponds or in combination with other filters.
Bio falls are also excellent pond filters. I do not recommend the old style Becket or Pond Master Submersible filters; they clog easily, are hard to service, and are not efficient filters. Multiple types of filtration are also excellent, such as a pressurized filter- bio falls combination, or a pressurized filter- sponge filter combination.
[3] PLANT FILTRATION (Often called Veggie Filters)
This is a very important part of pond keeping and filtration. A well planted and diversified planted pond is VERY important for clarity, pond and fish health, and even fish breeding. Any plant with a good root structure that grows fast and has the majority of their leaves above water is a good candidate to start with. I recommend water iris for their strong root structure, fast growth, great nutrient absorption, and a great place for baby fish (fry) to hide feed and grow. There are many other excellent plants as well such as bull rush. Make sure these types of plants (plants with roots in water and leaves above) are planted in an area of good, but not strong water movement. This ensures that they will do their job as plant filters.
Other plants such as lilies and hyacinth are excellent for nutrient removal too, but not at the rate of iris and similar plants. They are useful for shade, which will slow algae growth
[4] UV STERILIZATION.
Although not always necessary in a well planted, well shaded, well filter aquarium; they are still very useful. UVs help with algae control, disease prevention, and the Redox potential (which is important for fish health and proper filtration). For the UV to properly function in a pond, the flow rate should not exceed 20-45 gph per watt of UVC. In larger ponds with high flow rates I recommend more than one UV sterilizer, with a by-pass from the main line, connected in PARELLEL not in line together. For this reason, I also do not recommend the popular filters with built in UVs, as the flow rate is usually too high to work properly. A separate UV is always best! For more information about proper UV sterilization and how it works please visit this site; “WHY USE A UV STERILIZER”
Many times I have heard of complaints that their UV did not help with algae control, when I checked this client’s pond, I found inadequate filtration and an improperly installed UV sterilizer. Even a properly installed UV Sterilizer cannot over come poor filtration and a poorly planted pond. And many manufacturers make claims of high flow rates that are impossible for proper contact time.
[5] CLEANING (proper chemistry):
In a healthy pond, with a properly functioning nitrogen cycle, water changes can be minimal. I still recommend a water change of 10-20% per month on a healthy, fully functional pond. In a newer pond larger and more frequent changes may be necessary.
If your pond has a KH below 80 ppm and a pH below 7.0, I would first look to possible causes. One common one is the buildup of organic mulm on the bottom of the pond. The decomposition of this will produce nitric acids which will affect the pH and KH. Since most pond keeper have koi or goldfish, this is important to note, as both these fish do much better at a pH above 7.2 and need the calcium provided by the KH for proper osmotic function. See “Proper Calcium, Magnesium and KH in Aquariums” for more information about Calcium KH, and GH.
If a lot of leaves fall to the bottom of the pond vacuuming them or raking them out is important to prevent organic buildup.
Water changes also will help with pH and KH if your tap or well water is slightly alkaline and has a KH above 80 ppm.
A final note about KH, if your KH is below 80 ppm you will NOT have a healthy pond in the long term!
For much more, please read my vastly expanded Pond article with links to even more resources as well as pictures: A Clear Pond; Pond maintenance set-up, chemistry, filtration, predators and much much more.
By Carl Stohmeyer http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/
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Why is Aquarium Filtration Such a Hot Topic
Sep 2nd
Why is Aquarium Filtration Such a Hot Topic
The marine aquarium hobby was once viewed as very hard, very expensive, and needing a touch of magic. The first two were correct, but not the latter, that simply being how it probably appeared to anyone not in the hobby but perhaps with a spattering of knowledge. There was little knowledge of the needs of captive marine life, and for the most part (the biggest most part) only very hardy life in very small numbers survived for any length of time, and that was usually measured in months.
I can just see those pioneer marine aquarists sitting arguing over the possibly best way to proceed. If they could see us now, their flabber would certainly be gasted.
The first real breakthrough in filtration came with the under-gravel filter. I hang my head in shame as I forget the aquarist who did it, but a plate was put under the sand and water pumped through it to keep the sand clean. Keep it clean physically that is. However, after a while it was noticed that life was surviving for quite a while, much longer than usual. So experimentation ensued, with the same results. Eventually the reason was obtained for the extended life of the livestock (from a scientist maybe?) and of course the reason was that an ‘army’ of ammonia and nitrite destroying bacteria had been established. Despite my lean knowledge of the event (I‘m not that old!), I do recall that the aquarist didn’t believe that the answer to keeping marine life could be that simple, he continued to believe that it was because the sand was clean.
Anyway, the door was open. Filtration capable of supporting marine life had arrived, or at least capable of supporting fish on the whole. This must have caused a leap in the desire to keep marines, and indeed the hobby from that time did open up and expand considerably.
Jumping forward a decade or so (great when you can time travel), look at us now! The under-gravel filter continued in great popularity for quite a while, but now that marine aquarium keeping was much more popular there were higher numbers of innovative minds wondering if they could ‘do it better’, and, of course, the commercial manufacturers started taking an interest, first in under-gravel equipment, and then in canister filter equipment and media suitable for marines. From there the hobby has leapt forward. There are now highly efficient protein skimmers (what an aid to water quality they are), biological ‘trickle towers, denitrators, anti-phosphate reactors, water level top-up systems, calcium reactors etc. Seawater quality in the modern saltwater aquarium is unbelievably good compared to how it was not that long ago.
The very latest move has been to natural filtration techniques. Modern marine aquarists consider this to be the best, this is what nature does so it is considered that lead should be followed. The obvious example is ’live’ rock, with all its bacteria, doing the work that the old under-gravel filter used to do but doing it so much better – used properly it even gets rid of the nitrate. Then there is the DSB (deep sand bed), the plenum (a raised DSB), further examples of nature’s way. Very good and successful they are too.
Looking at all the above it can be seen why filtration is such a hot topic, though it depends which angle the aquarist is coming from.
There are aquarists who may or may not have tried different filtration techniques, but now have one which has worked very well for them. Their fish and corals are a sight to marvel at. Water quality is very high, and without doubt they have done well. They will often argue vehemently that their filtration or filtration combination is best. Well, so it seems to them. Truth is, there could be another aquarist who uses different methods and gets just as good results. They’re not going to agree, more discussion!
Then there are the more serious aquarists. They too have marvellous aquariums, usually filtered by live rock and often linked to a sump with a DSB etc in. Maybe they use algae (Caulerpa) to enhance filtration. Maybe they use other means. What they do is keep up to date with new ideas and emerging technology that they may be able to use to enhance their systems. Of course, they will discuss and argue over the potential benefits or otherwise of new filtration equipment etc.
Then there are those leading aquarists who are not really content just to achieve a great captive reef display. They wonder if there is any new way to enhance their systems. There already is a display aquarium, of course, and an attached sump with a DSB and probably Caulerpa. Some attach another area that is in total darkness permanently, so that some sponges and other filtering life forms can develop. There are other experiments being done. One leading aquarist even pondered the possible beneficial qualities of Aiptasia anemones. These anemones usually make the average aquarist go on the offensive. But what is being considered is their filtration ability if they are allowed to multiply and grow. Any spread out of the designated area would be controlled. However, spread within the designated area would presumably be controlled by the supply of food. I can see aquarists arguing about that one!
All of this is an effort to make the display aquarium part of as natural a system as possible, where interference from the aquarist is minimised. It is my opinion that there will always need to be some interference and action by the aquarist as, no matter how big the aquarium system, compared to its wild counterpart it is very tiny.
So the marine aquarium hobby is advancing. From the inexperienced newcomer who is simply researching the systems and methods available right through to the pioneer who is adding another experimental area to an advanced system, there is discussion and argument. The absolute beginner can puzzle over and discuss filtration when one system appears, at least theoretically, to be ’better’ than another. The very advanced aquarist or pioneer can argue in great technical depth about the merits of the latest potential advancement in filtration techniques. All those in the middle, the majority, can discuss and argue about just about any type of filtration in general.
It is a hot subject, filtration. It should be. It is an essential part of a successful, healthy, and vibrant aquarium. It is also the way forward, all this discussion, argument, and experimentation. It is also one of the things that make this hobby of ours so fascinating.
Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham between them have been keeping saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. Check out their Aquarists Online website if you are interested in learn more about aquarium filtration hobby.
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The variety of available filtration systems
Jul 21st
The variety of available filtration systems
Pet supply stores in the market are providing a good range of available filtration systems to choose from. All of them have some advantages and disadvantages as well. Before going into buying considerations, one has to keep some specifications in mind and this list is really going to help you a lot.
The fixing corner or box filters
These filters are made up of clear structures and are boxed shaped. The pros go as:
* They are extremely inexpensive and usually fit to the aquarium
* They work best when it comes to small tanks
* They are the best options for hospital and breeding tanks.
* Use of air stone make them self powered and efficient.
* Bacterial colonies breed well in such sort of filters.
Under gravel filters, the best seller
Most popular in the beginning aquarium kits, the UGF’s are just like above mentioned ones are also not so expensive. A prominent thing is most of the companies offer free maintenance. It includes the placement of filter which is also termed as filter under the substrate of the fish tank. Water is pumped by an air pump through the gravel and automatically filtering it just like biological filter. They are also working as mechanical filters and tend to clog over time thus. Regular filtering may cause an accumulation of filter particles on the floor and thus it is quite recommended to clean the floor regularly so that the waste could be rinsed off. Being a simple and cheap technique it is the one being most liked and purchased throughout the globe. One can imagine its utility from it price which is ranging within fifteen to thirty five dollars for twenty gallon capacity tank.
Simple setup filtration system: foam filtration.
Sponge or foam filtration is although not a good recommendation to be used as the main system in most of the fish tanks, yet is used worldwide due to its low cost and simplicity in use. This type is in use in hospital tanks and small breeding aquariums which contain tiny fry. This system boosts up the functioning of biological and mechanical types of filtrations. Regarding the prices, they vary from five to eight dollars per twenty gallons of water tank.
The most commonly used filters – The Power Filters.
Being the most renowned filtration system, power filters are usually taken as best source of mechanical, biological and chemical filtration at a single time. It is comprised of a chamber, with a hose that goes into it and it sucks water through the chamber to the chemical filter cartridge and then through the foam of biological sponge, before taking into the tank again. Stores offer a variety of different size tanks that go as high as seventy five gallons. Going a bit advance in technology, a bio-wheel attached usually boosts its efficiency. A plus point is they are easy in their maintenance. Price of such filters varies in the range of twenty to thirty five dollars per twenty gallons of water tank.
The Saltwater Enthusiasts – The Trickle filters
Also known as dry- wet filters; these are the most popular filters among hobbyists. The basic structure comprises two compartments. One is known as “wet- dry” compartment and the second is called as “sump”. The former one deals with the biological filtration. Water in this compartment after tickling down from a plastic plate, runs through the baffle to meet the activated carbon unit and then finally dispensed into the sump. From this compartment it is resent for filtration. Due to this complex procedure and frequently oxidizing of water this type helps in maintaining high quality water for a longer time. People with relatively higher number of fish in their tanks prefer it a lot. Pricing is in accordance to the efficiency of the system thus varying in the range of a hundred and fifty to two hundred dollars per medium size aquarium i.e. 40-60 gallons water.
Prompt Results with Canister Filters
Especially made for larger tanks the canister filters can clean large amounts of water and give better results in relatively lesser time. The mechanical filtration being offered is exemplary. They give a décor to the place as they can be placed underneath the aquarium and avoid awkwardness in look and beauty of the tank. Before going through chemical and biological filtrations, water goes through a number of layers which perform mechanical filtration. Thus they are also better in filtered water quality. The only thing that goes as cons is the difficulty in their maintenance. It requires a good sum of money and labor for the purpose. In case of large tanks it is the best option. Price ranges from hundred and quarter dollars to quarter to two dollars per fifty to seventy gallons water tanks.
A million dollars advice when it comes to filtration of water tanks is “keep your fish healthy and the beauty and functioning of your aquarium thus consult a renowned pet supply store or a fish dealer”. Such a person can personally visit your place and give a better idea you may opt. A professional can handle your queries well and can produce better results.
Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. His famous digital book <a target=”_new” rel=”nofollow” onclick=”javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview(‘/outgoing/article_exit_link’);” href=”http://www.goldfishcaretips.com”>Secrets on Keeping Beautiful Goldfish</a>, offers simple, easy to follow instruction for raising healthy, long-living goldfish. Visit his website http://www.goldfishcaretips.com to learn more about expertly raising your goldfish and to receive your FREE copy of his special report, <a target=”_new” rel=”nofollow” onclick=”javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview(‘/outgoing/article_exit_link’);” href=”http://www.goldfishcaretips.com”>Fish-Keeping Hobby Secrets Revealed</a>
DIY over the tank filter. for those fish freaks that run multiple tanks. for glass/eggcrate covered tanks. for people who like to DIY for the hell of it. what i used: Clear plastic box (crafts store) or any container you like. Clear acrylic tube (crafts store) or pvc pipe. Caulking gun. GE Silicone 1, clear, windows & doors. if you already have that very small & expensive aquarium sealant you can use that. this DIY does not require much of it. Soldering iron or drill. Plastic cap or use the undergravel adapter from your powerhead (which you’ll need anyway). Your choice of tubing (i just bought a replacement Fluval ribbed hosing/tubing for the 105/205 model. it’s alot flexible. Bio wheel mini part (not req’d). Bio balls (not req’d). Fabric/batting from crafts store or fabric dept at wally world. work in a well ventilated area if you’re going to use the soldering iron. inhaling the smoke kills stupid people. silicone also smells bad.
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