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Proper Aquarium Temperature Control

Proper Aquarium Temperature Control

Proper Aquarium Temperature Control


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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Proper Aquarium Temperature Control

Proper Aquarium Temperature Control

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Posted: Apr 01, 2010 |Comments: 0
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It is a known fact that there are necessary accessories to be put in a tropical aquarium.  Heater is one of those necessary things that should be given much importance.  Tropical aquarium heaters regulate the freshwater aquarium temperature making it appear as real tropical fish habitat enabling them to function in normal conditions as they can be.  However, there are a number of methods to observe on the proper placement of heater so that you can greatly benefit this important aquarium accessory.

Understand Heater Efficiency
Aquarium heater’s efficiency can be rated in many ways due to some of its distinct features.  Its efficiency can be directly affected by way of where it is located inside the aquarium, the population and the many variation of fish raised inside your tank and the over all well being of the fish.  There are others who suggested that actual temperature setting of the aquarium and the over all unit’s wattage has direct impact on how the heater functions.  Some commented on the use of multiple heaters in a single fish tank is possible.  Whatever those suggestions are for heater must be properly placed and should not be taken for granted regardless of the aquarium’s size, volume and population in order to create a normal balance of marine life inside the aquarium.

Proper placement of Heater
Aquarium heater can be commonly situated near a place where the water flows abundantly.  Water pressure produce heat that is why heater could be placed in either an inlet or outlet from spots where water can freely flow.  If you want to maximize fresh water aquarium temperature place the if possible near the water filter because water usually flows well on those area as the water filters clean the aquarium.  Always remember to put your aquarium heater where good circulation of water is present.

How Liquid gets heated?
Liquid just like any matter in the universe contains mass in equated amounts in the whole solution.  Heat circulation in liquid has relatively explanations too.  Heating one area of liquid doesn’t normally rise its whole aquarium temperature because you are only raising the temperature of the specific area where the heater is situated.
The reason why the whole liquid area gets heated over time is because of the alternate lowering and rising of temperature from one area to another in the whole aquarium environment.  The area where the heater is gets warmer allowing the cooler liquid portion to flow down.  The cooler part is now being heated making its temperature rise again.  It is a setting of dividing the whole area of the aquarium into portion so that heating the whole water area is chronologically made.  This process repeats again and again until the whole aquarium area gets heated and a uniform temperature is achieved.
Proper heating of your freshwater aquarium should be taken due consideration because without adequate heat you might put your fish at risk.  Water has to be properly heated so that a normal fish habitat can be experienced. 

Freshwater aquarium starters or that person who has just started putting up their own aquarium at home is advised to note these important ideas on how to set your aquarium heater.  Always put in mind that fish survival is in your hands.  Always remember that proper heating regulation inside your aquarium is vital the same way human does.  Fish won’t survive longer in a very cold environment neither on a very hot surface as well.  Therefore these guidelines presented above have in any ways helped you in your quest to successfully put up a home freshwater aquarium.

For more great information on freshwater aquarium temperature and freshwater aquarium lighting setup. do visit www.freshwateraquariumadvice.com

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Wilson love to share his secret of Freshwater Aquarium keeping, Ab workout and Pet caring. Feel free to visit his articles at www.freshwateraquariumadvice.com and www.secretofabs.com

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Wilson love to share his secret of Freshwater Aquarium keeping, Ab workout and Pet caring. Feel free to visit his articles at www.freshwateraquariumadvice.com and www.secretofabs.com

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    Goldfish Care As Well As Proper Aquarium Maintenance

    Goldfish Care As Well As Proper Aquarium Maintenance

    Goldfish Care As Well As Proper Aquarium Maintenance


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    Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Goldfish Care As Well As Proper Aquarium Maintenance

    Goldfish Care As Well As Proper Aquarium Maintenance

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    Posted: Jun 27, 2010 |Comments: 0
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    Proper aquarium maintenance is very crucial in goldfish care. Goldfish are relatively easy to care for and if you maintain your fish tank properly you will see that keeping goldfish health is quite an easy task.

    If you feel like you can always hire an aquarium maintenance service which may come to your office or home and take care of your fish. However, it is an always great to take care of your beloved fish yourself. It will give you a lot of satisfaction and pleasure and can be a rewarding experience.

    Important steps in goldfish care

    Very important equipment in your fish tank is its filtration system. You can choose from a wide range of filtration system available in the. However, the most common one resembles a box which fits over one side of the aquarium. The tank water will circulates through this filtration system and it generally uses charcoal. Again, another variety of filtration system can be biological filter. This type of filter can be used in along with a charcoal filtration as well. One advantage of this filter is that it allows good bacteria to grow inside the tank.

    The number of fish you have inside your aquarium is also of extreme importance. This is because it can influence the quality of water. If you have too many fish in a relatively smaller tank the water will tend to deteriorate very fast. So always maintain correct fish population inside the tank. Next you must be careful not to over-feed your goldfish. You must feed that much only which your fish can eat up within a few minutes. Because uneaten food can rot and give birth to bacteria.

    Change water partially water

    It is always essential to change your tank water partially in every week. In fact it is central to your goldfish’s care. Changing a portion of fish tank water every week will help you to keep the level of alga down and also to maintain a proper environment inside the tank. Moreover, you can siphon around 20 percent of the water in every few days. If your tap water has chlorine in it you must add a chlorine neutralizer before pouring it into the tank.

    Observe the behavior of your fish daily

    It is always handy to observe the behavior of your goldfish regularly. By doing this you can ensure that everything is fine inside the tank. Always check your filter and see if kit is running properly or not. If you have experience a power cut make sure that the air pump is running well.

    Furthermore, if you see any behavioral change in your fish you must know that there should be a cause behind it. You must take a proactive step to determine the cause of this change or else it may hamper your fish in the future.

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    Chintamani -
    About the Author:

    Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years.  He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way.  His famous digital book <a target=”_new” rel=”nofollow” onclick=”javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link']);” href=”http://www.goldfishcaretips.com”>Secrets on Keeping Beautiful Goldfish</a>, offers simple, easy to follow instruction for raising healthy, long-living goldfish. Visit his website http://www.goldfishcaretips.com to learn more about expertly raising your goldfish and to receive your FREE copy of his special report, <a target=”_new” rel=”nofollow” onclick=”javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link']);” href=”http://www.goldfishcaretips.com”>Fish-Keeping Hobby Secrets Revealed</a>

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    Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years.  He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way.  His famous digital book <a target=”_new” rel=”nofollow” onclick=”javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link']);” href=”http://www.goldfishcaretips.com”>Secrets on Keeping Beautiful Goldfish</a>, offers simple, easy to follow instruction for raising healthy, long-living goldfish. Visit his website http://www.goldfishcaretips.com to learn more about expertly raising your goldfish and to receive your FREE copy of his special report, <a target=”_new” rel=”nofollow” onclick=”javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link']);” href=”http://www.goldfishcaretips.com”>Fish-Keeping Hobby Secrets Revealed</a>

    This is the third video of my NEW 125 gallon aquarium. i used Potatoe stone, and Pea Gravel combined to make it a little more realistic looking. i used drift wood, and plants. I started off with 3 dozen Large goldfish, 30 guppies, 6 black line rasporas, 3 Crawfish and 5 other miscelaneous fish. they all survived the initial introduction to the tank, except goldfish, only about 13 remain lol.. I have 7 turtles, all best friends lol as dumb as that sounds, but it’s true. I have a fluval 405 external canister filter, that filters up to 100 Gallons, and i have a fluval U4 to Filter Out 65 Gallons, although i only need 25 gallons of extra filtration, the more the better.


    RElated Fish Information so Fish me Today


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    A Clear Pond; Proper Pond Maintenance, Filtration, and Chemistry

    A Clear Pond; Proper Pond Maintenance, Filtration, and Chemistry

    Keeping a clear pond in the warm or hot summer months involves these key ingredients for proper filtration:


    [1] ADEQUATE WATER CIRCULATION AND MOVEMENT.


    A general principle (not a rule) of about 50-200 gph per 100 gallons can work for this (A lower proportional gph for large ponds, a higher proportional gph for small ponds). This can be achieved with more than one pump and even a large aeration device (air stone). As for the air stone, I find they are excellent for vertical circulation, often better than water pumps of greater gph. A large double air pump such as a ReSun 9603, Million Air 600, Whisper 800, or Maxima with two air stones can circulate at a rate up to 500 gph. A way to check this is to place the air stone down a narrow PVC tube or aquarium lift tube, then place the top of the tube just above the water level and measure the rate the water fills up a gallon container (one gallon in 15 seconds= 240 gph).


    A good water pump is the Via Aqua 2600, 3300 or 6500 hydrant pump. Both have sealed electromagnetic motors and ceramic shafts.


    [2] GOOD FILTRATION.


    I prefer pressurized pond filters such as the “Clear Stream” for their efficiency and ease of hiding in the ground. But there are many excellent filters available.


    For small ponds (and even medium-large), large sponge filters are excellent bio filters and reasonable mechanical filters. They are inexpensive, easy to service, and simple to attach with either a power head pump or and air stone. There now is a specific Pond Sponge Filter called the”Hydro-Pond” there are two models; one air driven, one pump driven. They are useful up to 1500 gallons and more can be used for larger ponds or in combination with other filters.


    Bio falls are also excellent pond filters. I do not recommend the old style Becket or Pond Master Submersible filters; they clog easily, are hard to service, and are not efficient filters. Multiple types of filtration are also excellent, such as a pressurized filter- bio falls combination, or a pressurized filter- sponge filter combination.


    [3] PLANT FILTRATION (Often called Veggie Filters)


    This is a very important part of pond keeping and filtration. A well planted and diversified planted pond is VERY important for clarity, pond and fish health, and even fish breeding. Any plant with a good root structure that grows fast and has the majority of their leaves above water is a good candidate to start with. I recommend water iris for their strong root structure, fast growth, great nutrient absorption, and a great place for baby fish (fry) to hide feed and grow. There are many other excellent plants as well such as bull rush. Make sure these types of plants (plants with roots in water and leaves above) are planted in an area of good, but not strong water movement. This ensures that they will do their job as plant filters.


    Other plants such as lilies and hyacinth are excellent for nutrient removal too, but not at the rate of iris and similar plants. They are useful for shade, which will slow algae growth


    [4] UV STERILIZATION.


    Although not always necessary in a well planted, well shaded, well filter aquarium; they are still very useful. UVs help with algae control, disease prevention, and the Redox potential (which is important for fish health and proper filtration). For the UV to properly function in a pond, the flow rate should not exceed 20-45 gph per watt of UVC. In larger ponds with high flow rates I recommend more than one UV sterilizer, with a by-pass from the main line, connected in PARELLEL not in line together. For this reason, I also do not recommend the popular filters with built in UVs, as the flow rate is usually too high to work properly. A separate UV is always best! For more information about proper UV sterilization and how it works please visit this site; “WHY USE A UV STERILIZER”


    Many times I have heard of complaints that their UV did not help with algae control, when I checked this client’s pond, I found inadequate filtration and an improperly installed UV sterilizer. Even a properly installed UV Sterilizer cannot over come poor filtration and a poorly planted pond. And many manufacturers make claims of high flow rates that are impossible for proper contact time.


    [5] CLEANING (proper chemistry):


    In a healthy pond, with a properly functioning nitrogen cycle, water changes can be minimal. I still recommend a water change of 10-20% per month on a healthy, fully functional pond. In a newer pond larger and more frequent changes may be necessary.


    If your pond has a KH below 80 ppm and a pH below 7.0, I would first look to possible causes. One common one is the buildup of organic mulm on the bottom of the pond. The decomposition of this will produce nitric acids which will affect the pH and KH. Since most pond keeper have koi or goldfish, this is important to note, as both these fish do much better at a pH above 7.2 and need the calcium provided by the KH for proper osmotic function. See “Proper Calcium, Magnesium and KH in Aquariums” for more information about Calcium KH, and GH.


    If a lot of leaves fall to the bottom of the pond vacuuming them or raking them out is important to prevent organic buildup.


    Water changes also will help with pH and KH if your tap or well water is slightly alkaline and has a KH above 80 ppm.


    A final note about KH, if your KH is below 80 ppm you will NOT have a healthy pond in the long term!


    For much more, please read my vastly expanded Pond article with links to even more resources as well as pictures: A Clear Pond; Pond maintenance set-up, chemistry, filtration, predators and much much more.

    By Carl Stohmeyer http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/


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    Aquarium Medications; the Proper Use of Antibiotics, Antimicrobials, Herbal and Chemotherapeutic Aquarium Treatments

    Aquarium Medications; the Proper Use of Antibiotics, Antimicrobials, Herbal and Chemotherapeutic Aquarium Treatments

    This article (which will continue to grow with information) is informational about different aquarium (and pond) treatments. I give the gram negative or gram positive applications where they apply.

    When you have fish that are sick (bacterial, fungal, protozoan, or other parasites), you want to try and isolate them in a hospital aquarium whenever possible. Regular water changes before each treatment allow for a more effective treatment, especially when treated in the display aquarium.

    Sponge Filters work well in hospital aquariums. Remember to remove carbon, as carbon will remove many medications. Also note that silicone in the aquarium will absorb malachite green , methylene blue, and copper sulfate. Most corals (crushed and otherwise), and ceramic decorations will also absorb medications such as malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate.

    Proper calcium levels are important, as calcium also helps in healing and stress, and without proper calcium levels healing may be diffficult or impossible. The addition of antibiotics (such as Tetracycline) will lower calcium absorbtion.

    For more infomation about calcium, see this article: CALCIUM, MAGNESIUM, AND KH IN AQUARIUMS

    \\”Medicated Wonder Shells\\” deliver medication for ich and fungus treatment and control kH (Calcium) levels.

    TRIPLE SULFA (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole):

    Sulfas are all antibacterials. These drugs produce are bacteriostatic, meaning they inhibit the growth of the bacteria but do not kill them.

    Sulfa drugs arrest cell growth by inhibiting the synthesis of folic acid, a component required for growth by bacteria. Folic acid is a large molecule and is unable to enter bacterial cells, so the bacteria must synthesize the compound intracellularly. Animal cells are unable to synthesize folic acid and it must be provided in the diet. For this reason sulfa drugs are not toxic to animal cells.

    USE: A broad spectrum antibacterial medication, fin and tail rot, mouth fungus and collapsed fins, columnaris, and hemorrhagic septicemia. Also useful for damaged fins caused by fin nipping. An old standby that is still usefull and can be used in combination with Malachite Green or Acriflavin (do not combine with copper sulfate). Sulfas are more effective at higher pH levels.

    DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for a minimum of 10 days.

    TETRACYCLINE HYDROCHLORIDE:

    USE: Treatment of bacterial infections mostly gram-positive and some gram-negative infections such as fin and tail rot (split, ragged and deteriorating fin and/or tail), Popeye (protruding eyes, may be cloudy or hazy), gill disease (swollen, discolored gills, gasping for air and a decrease in activity) and secondary infections. It interferes with the production of proteins that the bacteria need to multiply and divide (bacteriostatic). Tetracycline Hydrochloride mode of action is as a protein synthesis inhibitor via an aminoacyl-tRNA binding mechanism to the 30S subunit. Mode of resistance is the loss of cell wall permeability. Note, Teracycline can lower red blood cell count, because of this I would not use with injured fish.

    DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons of water. Every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. This product will not work in water with a ph above 7.5- NOT FOR MARINE USE!

    QUININE SUFATE:

    USE: Resistant strains of Ich (especially on scale less fish). Protozoan, sliminess of the skin and Rams disease (whirling disease). Also good for resistant strains of Hexamita when combined with Metronidazole.

    DOSAGE : 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Once a day for 4-5 days. Do a 25% water change before each treatment.

    OXYTETRACYCLINE HYDROCHLORIDE:

    USE: Gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Marine ulcer disease, cold water disease, bacterial hemorrhagic septicemia (Symptoms: Red streaks in body and fins, or redness in the body. Open sores or loss of scales) and mouth fungus.

    DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg teaspoon per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. This antibiotic is best used mixed in with food, especially if your ph is above 8.0..

    NITROFURAZONE:

    USE: Bactericidal for some gram-positive and many gram-negative bacteria causing disease in fresh water and marine fishes. This antibacterial is effective for control of flexibacter/columnaris- (Symptoms: Fuzzy, thin, white coating on the body and fins. Looks like a fungus) -works well with Kanamycin for this, Aeromonas (Symptoms: fish have blisters forming on the skin that are full of a clear to yellowish fluid. The blisters may turn into large sores.), Vibrio and related species. Nitrofurazone is particularly useful for control of minor topical skin infections of marine fishes that have not become systemic. Effective against marine ulcer disease and protozoan. Also useful in treating furunculosis found in Koi.

    Serious adverse events related to nitrofurans are very rare. Acquired resistance of bacteria to nitrofurans during therapy has been rare and has not appeared on a significant scale in over 50 years of use. Do not use in the presence of invertebrates.

    Nitrofurazone is more effective at lower pH levels.

    DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

    NEOMYCIN SULFATE:

    USE: Gram-negative bacteria (Pseudomonas- Open red sores or ulcerations, fin and tail damage,fins and tail are eaten away, in severe cases, down to the body- treat with Kanamycin for this) and tuberculosis; gram-positive, and possibly mycobacterium. Works well in freshwater or saltwater aquariums.

    DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. For tuberculosis, use for up to 30 days.

    METRONIDAZOLE:

    USE: Hole in the head disease (hexamita), chilodonella, plistophora (parasite disease usually seen in neons and cardinals that causes loss of color, darting, and eventually death), salt water ich, bloat.

    DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

    KANAMYCIN SULFATE;

    USE: It is used to treat many sensitive gramnegative and some grampositive bacteria. Works especially well in salt water aquariums. Works well combined with Nitrofurazone for flexibacter (columnaris) (Symptoms: Fuzzy, thin, white coating on the body and fins. Looks like a fungus). Also useful for Pseudomonas-Open red sores or ulcerations, fin and tail damage,fins and tail are eaten away, in severe cases, down to the body. Kanamycin is very effective in high pH applications, especially vibrio, making it useful for brackish and marine treatments.

    Kanamycin can be effective for whirling disease , suspected kidney disease and dropsey.

    Kanamycin sulfate appears to prevent bacteria from making their cell walls, so the cells die.

    DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 48 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

    FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT IDENTIFICATION AND TREATMENT OF AEROMONAS, VIBRIO, & SEPTICEMIA

    ERYTHROMYCIN:

    USE: Fin and tail rot, infections attributed to kidney disease (often not true kidney infections), pop eye. Most gram-positive and some gram negative bacteria and fungus. Neon Tetra disease (faded color). Black Molly disease.

    DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

    TRICHLORFON (Dylox)

    Dimethyl (2,2,2,Trichloro-1-Hydroxyethyl) Phosphonate:

    Trichlorfon is an Organophosphate and degrades rapidly (approximately 99% of applied degraded in 2 hours) in alkaline pond water (pH 8.5) at room temperature. but remains stable in the same pond water held under acidic (pH 5.0) conditions for 2 hours.

    Trichlorfon is very highly toxic to invertebrates.

    DO NOT USE ON FISH THAT ARE CHEMICALLY SENSITIVE such as: Silver Dollars, Rays, Bala Sharks, Arowanas, Tinfoil Barbs, Hemiodus, Piranha, Most Silver Scaled Fish, Marine sharks, Lion Fish.

    See methylene blue if Dylox treatment is not available or viable

    USE: Trichlorfon is useful for treatment of: Hydra, Lernia (Anchor Worms), Parasitic Copepods, Monodigenetic and Digenetic Flukes, Fish Lice (Argulus), Leeches

    CLOUT contains Trichlorfon (Dimethyl (2,2,2,Trichloro-1-Hydroxyethyl) Phosphonate), as well as; 4-[P-(dimethylamino)-O-phenylbenzylidene]-2, 5-cyclohexadien-1-xylidene dimethylammonium chloride, 1,2,dimethyl-5-nitroimidazole

    DOSAGE: There is no recommended dosage (other than Freshwater fish acute toxicity= 1.6-180 ppm), refer to manufacturers directions for all products containing Trichlorfon.

    PENICLLIN, AMPICILLAN;

    USE: Belonging to the group of beta-lactam antibiotics, ampicillin is able to penetrate Gram-positive and some Gram-negative bacteria.

    Even though this a commonly used antibiotic family in humans and other warm blooded animals, this is a family of antibiotics that has shown to be generally useless in fish. About the only effectiveness comes in the treatment of some fungal eye infections. All medications, antimicrobials, antibiotics, chemotherapeutics work differently in differently in different organisms, even if the processes are similar. An example I often use is for Quinine Sulfate; this is a generally safe and effective treatment for fish, but not at all for invertebrates.

    ISONIAZID 300 mg:

    USE: Treatment for tuberculosis (Symptoms: the fish have been sick for several months. The fish is lethargic, anorexic, has fin or scale loss and a sunken stomach) in susceptible fish such as Discus. Can be combined with kanamycin.

    This is a difficult disease to treat, as treatment can go on for more tha a month.

    Also note that this is caused by a very similar bacterium in human TB, but is not the same, and the only danger to humans is to a open wound exposed to the bacterium, which then only causes a localized rash.

    DOSAGE: 1 tablet per 20 gallons, every other day for 14- 30 days

    METHYLENE BLUE (Zinc Free) 2.303% :

    USE: Fungus on eggs, Ich, fungus and some bacteria. Effective in gill disease. Transports oxygen. Some protozoa, sliminess of the skin and oodinium. Great for use as a 30 minute dip at double dose.

    Great when used as a dip for topical treatment of parasites, bacterial, and fungal infections. When dylox is not available, this can a useful treatment for anchor worm (especially in goldfish); first carefully remove the anchor worm with tweezers, then dip the affected fish in Methylene blue. When used with a UV sterilizer to kill the swimming stage of the female anchor worm (the female is the parasite), this can be an effective treatment. (Tank can also be treated with Malachite green or malachite green combination during this time for improved effectiveness).

    Also useful as a dip for ammonia and nitrite poisoning.

    DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 2.303% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days with water changes before each treatment. BEST USED IN A HOSPITAL TANK. Methylene blue can destroy nitrifying bacteria and plants in the display aquarium.

    ACRIFLAVIN HYDROCHLORIDE 3.84% solution:

    USE: An antiseptic agent for the skin and mucous membranes. It is known to inhibit mitochondriogenesis. Generally used treatment of mild bacterial and fungal infections such as mouth fungus, fin and tail rot, fungus, saproglenia; skin parasites such as oodinium (velvet), sliminess of skin, and ich (although a very mild treatment for ich, FW or SW)

    DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3.84% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with copper sulfate and malachite green.

    MALACHITE GREEN;

    USE: For treatment and control of various external parasites of freshwater and marine fishes. When used as directed the medication will control or prevent the following common protozoan parasites:

    *Ichthyophthinus (freshwater Ich) exhibited as fine \\”salt like\\” white spots that usually first appear on the fins.

    *Costia (Ichthyobodo). Not to be confused with ich, is a parasite that can live dormant on healthy fish (primarily their gills), then under certain conditions (poor water conditions, stress, ECT), reproduce rapidly. Symptoms of an outbreak include Heavy and labored \\”breathing\\” flashing and rubbing, skin cloudiness caused by excess mucus.

    *Chilodonella, *Ambiphyra, *Cryptocaryon (marine Ich), *Epistylis, *Oodinium and Trichodina, *Plistophora (best combined with formalin at 1/2 strength)

    Malachite Green is also effective against common external fungal infections of fishes and eggs which include Achlya and Saprolegnia.

    DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 0.038% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10-14 days. Or 1 drop of .50% solution per gallon every other day for 10- 14 days. 25% water changes are recommended before each dose. Use half dose for scale-less and delicate fish such as Clown Loaches and Neon Tetras. Double dose for marine aquariums.

    Note; malachite green is more toxic at higher ph.

    Can be combined with Formalin or Acriflavin.

    FORMALIN (3% formaldehyde):

    USE: For treatment and control of the diseases caused by fungi, protozoan and monogenetic trematodes of freshwater and marine aquarium fishes. Formalin will control or help prevent diseases of fishes caused by the following disease organisms: *Ichthyophthirius (freshwater \\”ich\\”), *Costia (Ichthyobodo), *Chilodonella, *Ambiphyra, *Cryptocaryon (marine \\”ich\\”), *Epistylis, *Oodinium, *Amyloodinium, and *Trichodina.

    DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with malachite green.

    Formalin can deplete oxygen in an aquarium, so consider adding an airstone or a power head with an air diffuser.

    COPPER SULFATE:

    USE: For treatment freshwater and marine ich, Oodinium, external parasites, fungus and even algae. Very effective when used properly and carefully.

    DOSAGE: Treat according to your solution to bring your copper level to .15 -.20 ppm. Sequestered Copper (often called chelated, but that is incorrect, chelated means inactivated) sulfate works best (citric acid help achieve this). Soluble copper salts work well in freshwater only. Do use with snails and other invertebrates, do not use in reef aquariums, and note; when uses as an algaecide, the copper is absorbed by the algae then released when it dies. Removal of sequestered copper can be difficult, only EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acidic Acid) and water changes remove it, NOT carbon.

    ORGANIC MEDICATIONS:

    There are three organic or \\”homeopathic\\” treatments that I have used;

    PIMENTA EXTRACT (PIMAFIX);

    USE: Pimenta extract is effective for a broad range of bacterial and fungal diseases that typically afflict fish and other aquatic animals. Fish diseases that may be treated in accordance with this include bacterial fish diseases, such as fin and tail rot, mouth fungus (often caused by the bacterium Flavobacterium columnaris); fungal fish diseases (such as those caused by microorganisms of the genera Saprolegnia and Achyle) and the like.

    Pimafix has also shown effectiveness in the treatment of Dropsey caused by aeromonas or pseudomonas (a disease of the Kidneys that causes bloating and distending of the scales, and is often fatal).

    DOSAGE: Refer to Pimafix instructions

    USNEA LICHEN;

    USE; Usnea is a lichen of the family Parmeliaceae that grows in damp temperate woodlands.

    I have found it effective for bacterial (generally gram negative), fungal and even parasites such ich. This remedy is still in the testing phase, but early results are promising. The Usnea Lichen is proving to be the most effective natural remedy early in my testing

    This lichen is boiled like a tea then added to the aquarium.

    DOSAGE: None established yet. I boil one small sprig in 6 oz. of water and add this to every 10-20 gallons of water every day until cure is effective +2 days

    MELALUCA TEA (MELAFIX):

    USE: Repairs damaged fins, ulcers, and open wounds.

    Promotes re growth of damaged tissue and fins.

    DOSAGE: Refer to Melafix instructions

    This is my very basic article, for my Full article that is updated very regularly, please visit this URL: AQUARIUM MEDICATIONS, treatments, how they work, and which ones to use and not to use.

    By Carl Strohmeyer

    http://aquarium-info.blogspot.com/


    RElated Fish Information so Fish me Today


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    Choosing the Proper Water Filters and Water Purification Systems

    Choosing the Proper Water Filters and Water Purification Systems

    Benefit from the clean and pure water we all need by choosing the proper water filters and water purification systems. Water is very important for the human body. With more than half of your body weight being water, you cannot survive more than a few days without it. Water is used in every cell of your body. It is the main component of the fluids within your bodily systems including your blood. Water travels throughout your body carrying nutrients, oxygen and wastes to and from your cells. Many parts of your body such as your heart, eyes, intestines, and even your little finger need water-based fluids to survive.

    The water we shower in, cook with, prepare juices, teas or coffee with affects our health as well. Because water dissolves numerous substances in large amounts, pure water rarely occurs in nature. Precipitation absorbs carbon dioxide and other gases, as well as traces of organic and inorganic material from the atmosphere. The surface waters may contain domestic sewage and industrial wastes. Groundwater may contain nitrogen compounds and chlorides. Bottled water can be contaminated as well.

    There are many water filters, but most of them do not remove pathogenic bacteria and most will remove the minerals needed by your body. Providing quality information to help you choose the healthiest water solutions, TheWaterKey.com selected the best water filters and water purification systems available.

    These filters are used to cleanse water for a variety of purposes including irrigation, drinking water, aquariums and swimming pools. Water filters can also be used for removing harmful substances, or for reasons of aesthetics, to improve the taste, color or odor of drinking water. The filters used by recreational hikers and military are usually portable and light and some filter water by working a mechanical hand pump; although some of them may use a siphon drip system to force water through, while others are built right into water bottles.

    SteriPEN is a portable water purification system that uses ultraviolet light to destroy bacteria, viruses and parasitic protozoa, giardia and cryptosporidium. It purifies water very fast, in just a few seconds, no matter your source is. Take this system with you wherever you travel and you will benefit from the clean water it produces. SteriPEN is very efficient; it eliminates 99.99% of bacteria such as salmonella and E. coli.

    The SteriPEN water purification system is available in different forms, including a pre-filter or a pre-filter and a water bottle.

    SteriPEN Adventurer Handheld Water Purifier provides the same treatment as SteriPEN, but it is smaller and has lower weight. It’s very durable and its soft coating makes it feel very comfortable in your hand.

    SteriPEN Adventurer Water Purifier with Solar Charging Case allows you to travel without carrying a bunch of batteries. Similar to SteriPEN Adventurer, this water purification system has a small size and low weight. The case provides secure storage and recharges its CR123 lithium batteries.

    Try water purification systems and water filters and you will enjoy cleaner, better tasting water.

    The water filters and the water purification systems are needed for your health.


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    The Importance of Proper Water Quality in Aquariums

    The Importance of Proper Water Quality in Aquariums

    Nothing is more important in aquarium keeping than water quality management. There are many excellent products available out there to assist in water quality management, but in my opinion, there is still no replacement for water changes, good filtration, and good feeding habits.


    Water Changes; changing water in more frequent, smaller amounts is preferable to larger less frequent changes. Make sure the water going in has the right chemistry (PH, ect.) and temperature. I like to use reverse osmosis water, then add the elements I need back in (especially for saltwater or soft water aquariums such as discus). Well or spring water is also usually excellent. Otherwise use a de-chlorinator (sodium thiosulfate), if chlorine or chloramines are present (Wonder shells remove chlorine, stabilize KH, and add electrolytes). Water changes are important for Nitrate removal and buildup of toxic organic and inorganic material.


    Good filtration consists of biological, chemical, mechanical, and germicidal.


    -Biological: Sponge Filters are excellent bio filters (generally used in smaller aquariums, but there are larger ones now available, as well a sponge pre-filters for intakes of other filters, such as canister and HOB filters), wet/dry on a larger scale, fluidized bed, and under gravel filters (Your canister filter, power filter, ect also can be biological filters- just make sure to not change all media during cleanings. You want to wash some of the media out in used aquarium water. Ceramic bio rings are excellent in canister filters for bio filtration). Live rock in marine aquariums also acts as bio filters. Biological filtration removes ammonia and nitrite from your water (anaerobic bacterial can remove nitrates in limited quantities in saltwater). Nitrates are best removed by plants such as Hornwort in freshwater. There is much more information available about Bio-Filtration here: “The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle”


    -Chemical filtration is achieved by carbon, zeolite (freshwater only for zeolite), and many other inorganic filter media such as resins.


    -Mechanical filtration is the removal of debris from the aquarium via filter floss, cartridges, ECT. Canister filters excel at mechanical filtration. HOB (Hang on the back- power filters) are also reasonable mechanical filters (The Aqua Clears are not very good mechanical filters, but generally good bio-filters)


    -Germicidal filtration is the use of uvc radiation or ozone to kill disease pathogens in the water. I highly recommend UV sterilization in ANY aquarium, especially fish tanks with high disease risk rates for disease such as goldfish or discus.


    Good feeding habits simply means feeding what the fish will consume in 2-3 minutes (very general rule), twice per day. Also using a quality food that is highly digestible is very important for less waste (Spirulina 20 flake, HBH, Omega, Sanyu, Hikari, and Ocean Nutrition are excellent, TetraMin in my opinion has too much cereal and indigestible amino acids). Most fish foods available have too high of a cereal content and not enough fats and fish proteins.


    This is a VERY general discussion about water quality; See our full Aquarium Information site below.

    By Carl Strohmeyer


    http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Information.html

    http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Pet_Videos.html

    Find More Aquarium Wet Dry Filter Articles

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