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How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium

How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium

How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium


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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium

How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium

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How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium

By: Paul Curran

About the Author

Paul Curran is webmaster at Fresh-Water-Aquariums-Guide.com and provides a care information system for fresh water aquariums.

Get your FREE E-Course on how to set up and maintain a beautiful aquarium, have the healthiest, happiest fish around AND learn more about how to have the best tropical freshwater aquarium

(ArticlesBase SC #2382161)

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium





1.The Tank?
Whether you have an acrylic or glass tank it must be sterilized before you can start putting anything in it. And you must have a hood/cover/canopy to reduce water loss by evaporation, stop the fish from jumping out and it holds your lighting system

2.What About Heating The Water?
You need to maintain the water temperature by means of a heater and thermostat combination. For tanks greater than 3 feet in length you may need a couple of these to ensure an even temperature throughout.

Thermostats can be either internal or external to the tank and must be adjustable by the aquarist. A thermometer will be needed to check the temperature

3.How Much Lighting?
You will need sufficient lighting to encourage plant growth but not too much giving you an algae problem. Use fluorescent tubes or tungsten lighting or a combination of the two. Experiment to achieve the desired result. Lighting the aquarium for ten to twelve hours per day is common

4.What About Filtration and Aeration
A filtration unit (internal or external) to the tank will remove suspended material from the water. An air pump attached to an air stone can aerate the water and boost the oxygen supply along with the small amount from the plants; although many do not see mechanical aeration as compulsory if the aquarium is properly

5.What Do I Put In The Tank?
The bottom of the tank is covered with washed gravel substrate arranged so the level rises up towards the back and deep enough for aquatic plants to be rooted. Rocks can be placed to disguise corners.

Tall plants behind bushier species will give the impression of depth. The front and foreground of the tank will be fairly open for the fishes to swim around in

6.How do I Fill The Tank?
Install the heating and filtration system. Pour water into a cup on the bottom of the tank and continue till it the tank is two thirds full. Insert your plants, top up, switch on heating, lighting and filtration systems. Now run your aquarium for at least two weeks to establish your plants and the biological system before adding your fishes

7.How Do I Stock The Aquarium?
Before you add your fishes calculate how many fish you can accommodate based on the surface area of the tank. A rough guide for tropical aquarium fish is to allow 12 square inches per one inch of fish. For example, if your tank’s surface area is 408 square inches then you could have 36 one inch fish or 18 two inch fish etc.

And also take into account the fishes particular swimming and behavioral characteristics. Introduce the fish into the tank by keeping them in their plastic bag till the water temperature equalizes that of the aquarium. You could add some of the aquarium water to the bag. Then release the fish into its new environment

8.Is The Diet And Feed Correct?
Generally speaking fishes do not have specific dietary requirements though its is always best practice to do a bit of research and determine if a particular species your have has any. Dried foods area available in a wide range of forms; flakes,pellets, tablets and powder.

Live foods can also be introduced to give a varied diet. Included in this category are insect larvae, micro-worms, freshwater crustaceans, and brine shrimp young. If vegetarian diets are needed use lettuce, oat flakes and chopped up spinach. It is important to make sure that the fishes only eat what you feed them in a few minutes. Otherwise the excess food will rot and pollute the water

9.What Maintenance Do I Need To Do?
Daily: Check on temperature and how the fish look. Weekly: Measure water quality (nitrite, nitrate, ammonia, pH), prune aquatic plants, remove debris from floor, clean and/or filter media. Monthly or longer: Partial water changes of 10-20% of the tank volume with the water at the same temperature and make up if possible. Algae on the tank front can be scraped off. The sides can be left for the fish

10.What about Illnesses?
Isolating fish is a great way to reduce the chance of illness occurring. Before you add new fish to your community, quarantine them or him/her in an isolation tank for a couple of weeks so you can see if they were bought with an illness established. Make the tank comfortable with plants and substrate just like the main tank and maintain the same conditions.

There are some illnesses you need to know about. Mouth fungus – cured by antibiotics. White spot – tiny white spots on the fish. Raised water temperature, salt treatment and medications are potential solutions. Fin rot – this infection happens after physical damage and is cured by antibiotics in clean water.

Fungus – appears like cotton wool on the skin. Cured by salt baths or methylene blue or malachite green treatments. Use your isolation tank for treating your ill fish from the main tank

So there you have it, 10 issues you have conquered in setting up your tropical freshwater aquarium.

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Paul Curran -
About the Author:

Paul Curran is webmaster at Fresh-Water-Aquariums-Guide.com and provides a care information system for fresh water aquariums.

Get your FREE E-Course on how to set up and maintain a beautiful aquarium, have the healthiest, happiest fish around AND learn more about how to have the best tropical freshwater aquarium

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Article Tags:
tropical freshwater aquarium, freshwater aquarium, tropical freshwater, fresh water aquariums, aquarium lighting, aquarium filtration, fish for aquarium, aquarium maintenance

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Copyright © 2005-2010 Free Articles by ArticlesBase.com, All rights reserved.

Paul Curran is webmaster at Fresh-Water-Aquariums-Guide.com and provides a care information system for fresh water aquariums.

Get your FREE E-Course on how to set up and maintain a beautiful aquarium, have the healthiest, happiest fish around AND learn more about how to have the best tropical freshwater aquarium

Find More Salt Water Aquarium Filters Articles

RElated Fish Information so Fish me Today


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Insider’s Secrets to Setting Up a Discus Fish Aquarium

Insider’s Secrets to Setting Up a Discus Fish Aquarium

Discus aquarium fish need to be chosen with care as the wrong breeder or fish can cause you lots of problems and frustrations. At times, though the temperature of the water maybe right and lighting and water chemistry may be correct, you are unable to follow the natural tendency of the fish you plan to keep. In order to maintain a thriving discus fish aquarium you need to understand and observe your fish, their behavior, their build etc.

As a discus fish aquarium is a closed ecosystem, small problems spread quickly affecting the whole aquarium and you have to be ready to react fast when such problems arise. Keep a check on the discus fish aquarium on a daily basis and in case there is any problem, fix it immediately. You should not take the diet of the discus fish lightly. Foods containing parasites must be avoided at all costs, as it would make the fish sick, thus most fish owners prefer feeding fish other food than the live ones.

You can start by rinsing everything that will go into the tank including the tank, gravel, decorations and plants. Add the gravel to the tank and fill the tank half full with water. Place the filter, decorations, plants and heater in the tank followed by filling up the water after removing the chlorine from it. Start the filter and adjust the temperature to 80 degree F and slowly add in your fish.

To provide shelter for the breeding pair you can add some potted plants kept in bare tanks but benefit from plants and bog wood, as they help in keeping the discus feeling safe knowing they have some place to hide. You could also use some sponge filter for the filtration system in order to handle the biological load. To pick up any kind waste in the water you can use an outside power filter.

So, take out some time to gain insight and knowledge about how to care and look after a discus fish aquarium. Learn how to treat discus well, provide proper and timely diet, maintain correct water temperature and water chemistry, take care of any diseases coming up, and at the end of the day you will be rewarded with a discus fish aquarium with some of the finest fish to boast about!

Discus fish are a beautiful and colorful fish to have in your aquarium, however they are delicate and need proper care. If you would like to know the secrets to breeding discus fish or how to care for discus fish the right way and have healthy and happy fish for a long time then visit my blog.


RElated Fish Information so Fish me Today


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Freshwater Aquarium Information: Setting up an Artificial Aquatic Ecosystem

Freshwater Aquarium Information: Setting up an Artificial Aquatic Ecosystem

Aquariums are good stress-relieving alternative; they give that soothing ambience when you gaze at the fish that swim about in the fish tank. Hobbyists often have a good time with their fish. Like with other domestic pets such as cats and dogs, fish are even given names by their owners. Keeping an aquarium at home is such a wonderful hobby that anyone at any age can enjoy it, and we’re going to give you a few tips and some helpful freshwater aquarium information to help you get started.

Big Aquariums = Easy Maintenance
Small aquariums should never be used by beginners. There are a lot of factors to consider when maintaining the water in your aquarium suitable for life, and small aquariums tend to spread the changes in the water chemistry far too quickly because of the small volume that they have to cover, leaving a very small room for errors. Thus, keeping small aquariums is absolutely not recommended for beginners. Big aquariums, however, tend to extend the changes in water chemistry over a large volume of water, so these changes are actually “diluted”, making it easier for the beginner to observe and maintain these water chemistry factors.

Make Fish Population proportional to Tank Size
Don’t try to sardine-pack the fishes on a small space. If you can’t help having a large number of fish in an aquarium, then try to purchase an aquarium that can surpass the overall “fish mass” of about 50% when the net water volume is measured. Otherwise, reduce the number of fish that you plan to raise. This is very crucial, because you don’t want to end up having to lose all of your fish in one day, just because you didn’t pay enough attention to the space that the fish need.

Learn About Your Aquarium’s Water Chemistry
This is considered as the vital freshwater aquarium information: monitoring the different levels of impurities or composition of the water. There are four general levels that you have to observe when maintaining your fish tank, and these are the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and the water’s pH levels.

Ammonia is beneficial ONLY during the startup cycle. In different circumstances it is quite toxic, and at uncontrolled levels it can instantly kill your fish. Nitrites are also quite toxic, and should be kept as low as possible to support marine life. Nitrates are a lot less toxic than the other two, and are in fact the by product of algae breaking down the two previous substances, but you can’t keep too much of them in your tank either. Water pH levels refer to the acidity and alkalinity of water, and are mostly controlled by applying the appropriate substrate to your fish tank. Most of the times, pH levels are controlled by your filtration system, although they are best managed by controlling the substances in the water that cause them to rise or fall.

Do a Full Maintenance of your Aquarium at Regular Intervals
This is perhaps the most challenging, if not the most tedious, thing to do when setting up your fish tank. Filters need to be changed once in a while (around 2-3 weeks at best), and if you don’t do this, your fish tank is in big trouble. Also, you need to change the water of the tank periodically. Don’t forget to put your fish into hospital tanks before doing this. NEVER EVER use soap when cleaning the articles that you put on the substrate (such as decorative corals, etc.). Instead, soak them in a tub filled with hot water mixed with salt for a few hours, and scrub them with a clean sponge. If you need to change substrates, then you have to test them again for water pH level changes.

Sandra Gaffney is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great tips on

freshwater aquariums
, visit

http://www.myfreshwateraquariumsecrets.com/


RElated Fish Information so Fish me Today


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Setting Up a Complete Fish Tank

Setting Up a Complete Fish Tank

A fish tank can bring the beauty and splendor of tropical or freshwater fish into your home or office. The setting up of a complete fish tank can be done quite easily by following some simple and sound fish keeping guidelines.

Visiting a local pet shop or fish breeder will allow you to get all the information necessary about the various types of fish available. But the most important thing is to find the fish tank which will perfectly suit your requirements. Finding the perfect fish tank can be quite a difficult task until and unless you have clear picture of all your needs. Consider the size of the tank you want and how much space is available in your home or office to accommodate it properly. Also the type of fish you intend to keep will play a big part in determining the size of your aquarium. For example fast growing fishes will need more space to swim, grow and socialize.

Previously only glass tanks were available but with the arrival of acrylic tanks the number of options has become huge. Acrylic tanks are much lighter and durable, making them much easier to handle than glass tanks. On the other hand acrylic tanks scratch more easily than glass tanks. Once you have decided on the size and material, you are ready to buy one of the many complete fish tanks available in various online and offline stores. Buying from online stores will allow you to avail discounts which are sometimes as high as 50%. Always give preference to online stores who want payment after delivery as it lessens the chance that you will receive a damaged tank with cracked glass or chipped edges.

A fish tank is said to be a complete fish tank only when all the necessary accessories and equipment are installed in it. In case of freshwater tanks the accessories required, are few and simple. However while setting up saltwater tanks, quite a few accessories are required which can be both complex as well as expensive. Like fish tanks the accessories too are available on online sites at highly discounted prices. By following simple procedures you can easily install the accessories to your fish tank. Along with the water heater, that maintains the temperature of the water, the filter is the most important accessory required to create a proper environment for the fish.

A filter is a must for every aquarium as it maintains a healthy environment in the aquarium by filtering out debris and other particles from the water which would otherwise contaminate it. The different types of filters available include box filters, under gravel filters, sponge filters, power filters and canister filters. In the end put in a few decorative plants and items like rocks, ornaments etc along with a backing picture and your fish tank will look like a truly complete fish tank.

With all this done you are ready to introduce fish into your fish tank. Take time to establish your fish population as that will give the biology of the tank the time to adjust to the new fish and the waste they produce. Always buy fishes from a reputed dealer to avoid the likelihood of introducing diseased fish into the tank.

Fisher is the author of this article on Freshwater Fish Tanks. Find more information about Fish Tanks For Beginners here.

The Goldfish have returned! Watch as Alex (“quaqa88″) sets up the new “Aqueon Power Filter” onto the goldfish aquarium, as well as doing a small little update on the tank and the fish. Please comment and subscribe! Enjoy! PLEASE WATCH PART 2 AFTER THIS VIDEO!!
Video Rating: 4 / 5

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Aquarium Fish Care – Setting Up Your Own

Aquarium Fish Care – Setting Up Your Own

You are full of enthusiasm about having your own fish tank. Well, all that remains to be done is going to the neighboring pet store and choosing a tank which appeals to you the most, right? Well, not exactly. Aquarium setting up is a long process which consumes a lot of thought, time and patience. If you happen to be a novice, you could start out with freshwater fish. But before you buy the fish, you have to get ready the aquarium which will house your fish. Aquarium retailers mostly sell aquariums in kit form so that nothing is left to guess work at the time of purchasing.

The first step is to rinse the tank with clean water from the tap. The gravel and the substrate also need to be rinsed. If the filter used is an under gravel one, it should be placed at the bottom of the aquarium. The filter should then be covered with gravel of about two to three inches. Then the tank should be filled one third with water that is de-chlorinated. Next is the addition of decorations or plants to the tank. Your retailer can keep you informed on the details of adding live plants. A few of them need to be anchored, while some can be left to float freely. Then you can connect the air pump and filtration system and fill the remaining tank with de-chlorinated water. Last step is to put the lid on the tank and leave it to cycle for a day or two before adding fish to it.

Look out for cloudiness of the water and the temperature and pH of the water should also be checked. If all these are okay, then you can add some hardy fish. The fish species should be able to tolerate high levels of ammonia and nitrites as these levels normally high due to the cycle of nitrogen in the new tank. Tank debris from the excretions of the fish generates good bacteria in it which are essential for the survival of the fish. As the tank has no fish as yet, this will take more time, normally around four to six weeks.

After you purchase your fish, you should leave them afloat on the tank surface in its bag for around fifteen minutes. This serves to make the fish acclimatized to the temperature of water of the aquarium. The fish should then be carefully added into the aquarium with the help of a bucket and a net. Never pour the bag water into the aquarium as this could disturb the perfect regulation of the water and new bacteria will be introduced into the aquarium which is not desirable. Observe the fish carefully to detect any signs of stress. Fish stress results in illness. You need to monitor their activity levels. If the fish is inactive of is hanging out at the surface of the aquarium, it means that the fish is under stress. If these symptoms appear, then a stress coat should be used. You should allow the existing fish to get acclimatized to their new environment for at least a week or even a month before adding new fish to your aquarium.

Abhishek is an avid Fish Lover and he has got some great Aquarium Care Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 105 Pages Ebook, “Aquarium Care Made Easy!” from his website http://www.Wonder-Homes.com/636/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.

home made filter made out of to bottles contain bio media, filter mesh, works with a power head.


RElated Fish Information so Fish me Today


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Setting Up A Saltwater Aquarium – A General Overview

Setting Up A Saltwater Aquarium – A General Overview

Setting up a saltwater aquarium takes some time, but it’s well worth the effort. As long as you prepare for each step of the process, you shouldn’t run into any significant problems along the way.

The first step is to purchase an aquarium and the equipment you’ll need to set everything up. You have a choice when it comes to filtration equipment, but it’s recommended to stay away from undergravel filters, which are unnecessary and can cause a lot of problems. Live rock is a more efficient biological filter perfect for use in saltwater tanks. For mechanical and chemical filtration, a simple filter works best.

The protein skimmer is the next big part of the installation, and an integral part of the whole aquarium. Spend the extra money and invest in a high quality protein skimmer that will do the job right. Next, look for a heater that can handle the size of aquarium you plan on creating.

Once these key pieces of equipment are on hand, you can move on to other aspects of the aquarium setup, such as adding the live rock, sand, and a power strip. Typically, a saltwater tank can take about 1-2 pounds of live rock per aquarium gallon and ½ pound to 1 pound of sand per gallon of water. Avoid sandbox sand because you don’t know what other material may be present in the sand that could harm your fish. Aquariums require live sand, an aragonite based sand, or crushed coral.

Setting it all up

Now that you have the equipment ready to go, it’s time to set everything up. Rinse the tank with water but don’t use any soap, as the residue that gets left behind is often harmful to fish.

Add your chosen background to the tank or paint it an appropriate color. If you choose to paint the aquarium, allow the paint to dry for a couple of days.

Once this is accomplished, install the heater, filter, protein skimmer and anything else you have decided to add to the aquarium. Use a drip loop on all the power cords for safety reasons.

Before you plug anything in, go ahead and add pre-mixed saltwater to the aquarium. There are many mixes available on the market, so the one you choose depends on your own personal preferences. This step is very easy – just follow the instructions on the package. Make sure to test the saltwater with a hydrometer or refractometer before adding it to your tank.

Once this is done you can turn on the aquarium – let it circulate for a few days before adding anything else to the tank.

If you’ve decided to use live rocks, they will have to be cured before you add the fish to the aquarium. This can take a long time, but it’s worth it for the filtration benefits derived from live rocks. Once the rocks are ready, you can move on.

Add the substrate (make sure you turn the power off first) and then wait a few days for the tank to settle down. Test the water and make sure all the readings are where they should be.

After the tank has cycled, add the saltwater fish from a quarantine tank. Add only a few at a time so that the filtration system has time to adjust.

This is an aquarium with a Southeast Asia theme. The volume is 29 gallons (about 110 liters), and the size is 30 1/4″ x 12 1/2″ x 18 3/4″ (about 77cm by 32cm by 48cm). The plants are java moss (_Taxiphyllum barbieri_, aka _Vesicularia dubyana_), java fern (_Microsorum pteropus_), and water wisteria (_Hygrophila difformis_). The fishes are siamese algae eaters (_Crossocheilus siamensis_), Burmese border loaches (_Botia kubotai_), and dwarf puffers (_Carinotetraodon travancoricus_, aka _Tetraodon travancoricus_). The tank is teeming with mixed cherry shrimp (_Neocaridina heteropoda_), which vary in color from bright red to transparent with dark speckles. The cherry shrimp breed frequently and grow quickly in this tank. There are also four Amano shrimp (_Caridina multidentata_, aka _Caridina japonica_) in there. It’s difficult to see most of the shrimp, but they are very numerous. There were once many hundreds of Malaysian Trumpet Snails (_Melanoides tuberculata_) in this tank, but the loaches have eaten most of them. Some hobbyists warn that dwarf puffers may injure, kill and eat shrimp. I introduced the puffers a few months ago, when the tank was already well-planted, and the shrimp population was high. The shrimp are still doing very well. It’s possible that the shrimp are breeding faster than the puffers can eat them, or that the puffers get enough food that it is unnecessary for them to hunt shrimp. In this clip, I’m feeding the tank some frozen mosquito larvae, which
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Setting Up Your New Aquarium

Setting Up Your New Aquarium

If you have done the proper planning for your new aquarium, you’ve already purchased, or otherwise acquired, everything you need to set it up, and have prepared a location in your home where your family and guests can get the most enjoyment from it. If you haven’t, you should do your research and planning, and then go out and get your equipment. Do not get your fish yet. Wait until your tank is set up and running correctly. If something goes wrong, you don’t want to have to worry about where your fish will live while you deal with the problem.

Okay, let’s get started. Whether you have a new or used tank, you should clean it thoroughly. Avoid soap and chemical cleaners, as they can leave a residue that could make your fish sick or even kill them. Use clean water and a sponge or brush manufactured specifically for aquarium use. Fill the tank and check for leaks. It’s much easier to deal with a leak now than after you’ve installed everything. Once you’ve determined that the tank is okay, drain it and let it dry.

Place your stand in the location you have selected. Make sure it is stable, sturdy, and level. It’s important that it be level, otherwise you could end up with a leaking or broken tank. Remember that you should locate the aquarium away from direct sunlight to avoid excess algae growth.

If you are using an under-gravel filter, rinse it, place it in the bottom of the tank, and connect the air hoses according to the instructions that you got with the filter. If you are using a different type of filter, skip to the next step.

If you have purchased a background, apply it to the outside of the tank now. Take your gravel, and wash it in a bucket. Remember the implications of commercial cleaners. Use clean water only. Drain the bucket when the gravel cleaning is complete.

Place the gravel in the bottom of the tank, approximately two inches deep. Spread it so that it is slightly deeper at the back of the tank, and slopes very gradually towards the front.

Assemble and set up your filter (unless you have already installed an under-gravel filter). Make sure to consult the manufacturer’s instructions for any pre-installation requirements. If you are using an air pump, install that now as well. If you are using a hanging heater, hang it near the
back of the tank, but in a place where it is easily accessible. If you have a submersible heater, install it in the tank according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Do not plug anything in yet. Attach or hang your thermometer, depending on which type you have.

Now it’s time to add the water. Take a clean dinner plate, and place it upside-down in the center of the tank. Fill a bucket with water, and carefully pour the water onto the top of the plate, thereby preventing the gravel from being disturbed. Fill the tank almost to the top.

An aquarium should look as natural as possible, both because it is more pleasing to the human eye, and because the behavior of the fish will be closer to what it would be in their natural habitat. Therefore, you should install some decorations in your aquarium, and now is the time to do that. Pet supply stores and fish stores stock a wide array of aquarium decorations. You should be sure to include plants, whether live or imitation. Live plants will give off oxygen into the water, but will also require some extra care, and will need to be removed if they die. For a beginner, realistic looking plastic plants are a good choice. Place the largest plants at the back of the tank, and the smaller ones at the front.

Place the hood and lights on top of the aquarium, and plug everything in. You should make sure that all electrical cords are positioned in such a way to have a “drip loop”, so that if water happens to run down on them, it drips onto the floor rather than into the electrical outlet.

Okay, we’re ready to perform a test. Make sure filters that need to be filled with water have been filled, and turn on the filters and/or air pumps. Verify that they are working correctly, and that the water is flowing at the rate expected. Turn on the lights, and make sure they are working. If the water is a little cloudy, don’t worry, it will soon clear. Adjust your thermometer according to the breeds of fish you are planning to keep. Your fish store can supply this information if you can’t find it elsewhere. Most freshwater tropical fish like a water temperature in the 75-80F range.

Assuming that no problems are found, you can let your equipment run. I know you’re anxious, but don’t run out and get fish yet. Your aquarium should run for about a week before you add any fish. Leave the lights on for about half the day during this period.

Nick Bulka operates a number of pet related web sites. For more great information on aquariums and tropical fish, visit Best Aquarium Resources and The Pet Guide

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Setting Up Your First Aquarium

Setting Up Your First Aquarium

Available online you will find starter kits, as well as beginner fish. Fish tanks include nitrogen cycles, which is produced by ammonia, nitrates, and nitrates. Fish naturally produce such chemicals, yet the chemicals must be balanced so that the fish will not become ill or die.

Starter kits are available, which supply additives, such as ammonia. Since, fish tanks require a degree of ammonia, the starter kits are ideal for beginners. Starter fish are also available, which can produce adequate supply of ammonia. If you purchased a coldwater tank, goldfish is a great starter fish.

When you first purchase your aquarium and fish, you want to make sure the nitrogen cycles are sufficient to provide fish the correct amount of ammonia. Tanks typically include plants, which plants will aid in purifying your tank by absorbing chemicals and providing oxygen. Plants also break down ammonia and water, which the plants will filter ammonia and bacterial in the water. Since, fish produce nitrates or ammonia, the plants will help you maintain a balance. If you ammonize your tank with starter fish, make sure you avoid overfeeding the fish. Use your test kits to check the level of ammonia in the water. Generally, it takes around five weeks or longer to ammonize your tank properly. You can purchase starter kits, or products that will help speed up the process so that you can add more fish.

Once you purchase your tank and prepare to set up the tank, make sure that you have a stand that will securely hold the tank. You want to avoid situating the stand/aquarium near windows, doors, or heaters. This will only increase algae build up, which will make your maintenance job tougher.

Once you tank is setup you can add gravel after boiling and rinsing. If you purchased pre-washed gravel you will not have to boil the gravel before putting it into the take, still you will need to rinse. Start adding the gravel toward the back of the tank for the best results. In addition, it depends on the filter you purchased as to the height of gravel placed at the front of the tank. For instance, under-gravel filters require that you use lower levels of gravel near the front of the tank. It is recommended that you install the filters and heaters last after setting up your tank properly. On the other hand, if you purchased powered filters, you should install the filters before adding gravel.

After you add your gravel, you can add ornaments and plants. Make sure you purchase marine based plants. At the start, you should only fill your tank halfway, and then completely fill it after you have added your additives. You want to use pre-treated water, to fill the tank halfway. Once the tank is full, put your thermometer in place. Next, prime the filters, which you will have available instructions with your purchase.

If you chose other than goldfish to ammonize the tank, then wait a few weeks before adding fish. On the other hand, if you chose goldfish, you can add the fish to the tank to start the ammonize process. You can prepare the fish for tank water by allowing them to float at the top of the aquarium while still bagged. In addition, you will need lights and a hood to fit over the top of your aquarium. In fact, most aquariums today come with hoods included. The hood is used to keep out critters and keep your fish in the tank. As well, the hood will help regulate the tank lights.

Information on dangerous sharks can be found at the Types Of Sharks site.

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Setting Up Your First Fish Tank

Setting Up Your First Fish Tank

I still remember every minute of the day I got my first fish tank. Of course, I said I wanted to start small, so I got my 10 gallon tank with 3 small Goldfish…six months later, I had a 75 gallon tank with 9 Goldfish. So, if you don’t want to repeat the whole process very soon, I would recommend getting the largest tank that you can accommodate. It’s actually easier to clean a bigger tank than a smaller one. Small tanks and bowls require a lot more maintenance, believe it or not. You can find more information about all that throughout the site. For now, let’s hope that this guideline can help you set up your fish tank. Like I said, you can start with a 10, 20, 30 gallon tank or bigger, made of glass or acrylic. Glass is traditional, but the advantages of an acrylic tank are many. It’s a lot lighter, seamless, and the clarity is unbeatable. Just remember to buy cleaning tools for acrylic and not glass.

Get an under gravel filter, UGF, a plastic cover with a fluorescent light, one pound-per-gallon of aquarium gravel or sand, an air pump and a heater. If you have some extra change, get a power head instead of an air pump and replace the hanging heater with a submergible model.

You can buy a complete setup without ornaments for a low price, and this is a great beginning. You also need a stand that can hold the tank. Remember it’ll be very heavy once you add the water. Start out with plastic plants, and plastic or resin, maybe wood, stone or ceramic decorations. Be careful, not every rock or toy is good for your tank. Some have toxins that can kill your fish. Remember, a larger tank is easier to maintain than a small one and it can hold many more fish, which will lead to a more pleasant experience of fish keeping.

Once you have the equipment, the rest is easy. Choose a stable place to set the tank in your home.

Once it’s filled you won’t be able to move it without emptying it first and you don’t want to do that, and try no to put it under the direct sunlight of a window or a very hot area, since heat makes algae grow faster, which means, cleaning will be harder.

There are more complicated and expensive ways to filter the gravel, but I recommend using under gravel filters (UGF). These sit on top of the glass in the bottom of the aquarium. Lift tubes are inserted into the risers at the rear of the filter, and then the under gravel filter is covered with gravel.

Rinse the gravel well and spread it so you get an even layer. You always have to rinse everything very well before putting it in the tank.

Now add the heater and the water pumps if necessary. If you have a hanging heater, hang it off the back, where you can still see it and tell if it’s on. A submersible heater should go near the bottom of the tank because the heat rises. Find a location for your air pump and put your air line and air stones in. You will also need a gang valve for the air line, which will let you run two lift tubes off of a single outlet air pump. Run a piece of air line from the air pump to the gang valve. Run another air line from the gang valve to each of your lift tubes. Read the instructions for your filter to see exactly how to attach the air line to your particular air stones.

Power heads are great for aquariums. They draw water from under the UGF and pump it out of the power head, creating water movement as well as delivering oxygen to the fish and the beneficial bacteria that live in the gravel (substrate).

There are also mechanical filters on the market. I prefer the ones with a Bio Wheel. The Bio Wheel is a paper like cylinder that rotates as the water is returned to the tank. Beneficial bacteria live on the wheel and helps increase the biological cycle.

Now place your ornaments in the tank and see where you want them before you get your hands wet. Expect some ceramic or plastic decorations to float or tip over as you put water in the tank.

Once your decorations are in place, you are ready to add water. You can just pour tap water into the tank and since you have no fish, plants, or a biological filter to worry about, add the treatment after the tank is full. Be careful that the water doesn’t dig a hole in the gravel as you pour it in.

It’s good to wait a couple of days before adding fish. Remember that patience is important to have long living, happy fish.

Then you’ll be ready to start the biological cycling process.

If you want to read more about keeping a fish tank in your home, visit me at http://www.thefishtankplace.com

Rebeca has been interested in animals and Feng Shui for many years and now she wants to share her knowledge of these subjects with people in a very light and personal way. Feng Shui has improved her life in many ways, and her cats and dogs, and the fish that came as a part of her passion for Feng Shui, are now a very important part of her, and she’s very happy to share her experiences with everybody.

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Setting Up Your Salt Water Aquarium for Success

Setting Up Your Salt Water Aquarium for Success

It takes several key components to set up a successful salt-water aquarium to garner success. Correct PH levels, the right high bay lights and the right coral reef set up are all key components you’ll need to research to ensure a copasetic environment for your marine life.

 

The most important set up tip you can get is to gain as much information as you can concerning the proper PH levels for marine salt-water aquariums. No matter how pretty your set up is, if your water levels are out of control your marine life will not be alive for long. In general the larger the tank the less likely you are to have spikes in PH levels. The minimum suggested size for a marine tank is 30 gallons and preferably higher. Anything less than 30 gallons and you’ll spend as much time checking water quality as you do watching your fish. Maintaining proper salt levels will help to ensure you maintain a healthy environment for your under water world.

 

Lighting is also a major key in maintaining a healthy living environment for your marine life. Most people who want a well-balanced salt-water tank want some level of a coral reef. This is needed to sustain that balance. If you don’t want a reef then lighting is not as essential but if you do, then going with high bay lights as the systems will help you maintain the correct levels of UV for your aquarium. You can buy commercial hoods complete with lower quality ballasts and brackets or you can buy lighting systems designed to light! Most experienced reef owners will tell you that sit on top hoods pale in comparison to open tanks with high bay lighting that is suspended above the tank. It causes less heating issues and also acts more like the sun (in the fact that it’s farther above the water, not right on top of it.) Most suppliers can also help you with setting up daytime lighting and nighttime lighting. It’s been proven that marine life get just as much benefit from moonlight as they do sunlight. For some reefs, moonlight is even more important than sunlight.

 

Once you have your reef, lighting and PH in place you’ll need to focus on filtering. Freshwater aquariums require much less filtration than well balanced marine set ups need. Bacteria tanks are often employed to ensure the fish are getting the right amounts of bacteria. Skimmer filters and salt filters are also commonly used to ensure the conditions in the water are properly balanced. This is one of the largest costs of owning a salt-water set up and will also be one of the most labor-intensive projects for your tank. However as tedious as it may seem, proper filtration of the water is key to success.

 

Maintaining a marine tank will always be more labor intensive then a fresh water tank but you’ll rarely see anything in fresh water nature that compares to the majestic flow of marine life and coral reefs. The benefits out weigh the work involved in maintaining a reef tank.

K. Green has much experience with fish tanks and using high bay lights to maintain a healthy living environment for all her marine life.


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