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Starting A Tropical Saltwater Aquarium – List Of Things You Need

Starting A Tropical Saltwater Aquarium – List Of Things You Need

Starting A Tropical Saltwater Aquarium – List Of Things You Need


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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Starting A Tropical Saltwater Aquarium – List Of Things You Need

Starting A Tropical Saltwater Aquarium – List Of Things You Need

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Posted: Feb 03, 2009 |Comments: 0
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When you finally decide you want to own tropical saltwater fish, you need to pick out an aquarium. This is going to be an important decision because you are going to have to look at it everyday. There are many factors to consider. The smart thing to do is write a list of the type of things you want for the aquarium, what you are going to need and the options for each.

The first thing to consider is the space. The size of the aquarium for the tropical saltwater fish is going to depend a lot on where you are going to put it. You can get a small one that fills about 20 gallons all the way up to a massive size of 1,000 or so. An aquarium that is going in the home usually goes for the smaller end.

Many of the next decisions are going to be predicated on the size of the tank, but before we get into the needs of the tank, let’s look at a few cosmetic items. One thing you are going to have to choose is if you want a background. It can either stay clear and you will have the back of the wall showing through or you can get a design for the bank of the tropical saltwater aquarium. You need to decide this first because you have to install the background before you put the water in. The next thing you want to choose is what you are going to line the bottom of the tank with. This could be a number of things from gravel to sand to coral. This might depend on the type of fish you get.

The heater and filter are very important to the tank. This is the life line of the tropical saltwater fish. Both of these pieces of equipment have to be large enough to operate the tank. In some cases you might need more than one filter. Talk to any pet shop employees and do some research to find out what filter is going to work best for a tropical saltwater aquarium. The heater is especially important. Tropical fish need warm water and the only way to provide it is with the heater. Also get a thermometer to monitor the temperature once you have the tropical saltwater aquarium put together.

When purchasing items for a tropical saltwater fish tank, the most obvious thing you are going to need is saltwater mix. You will also need a saltwater mix hydrometer. To monitor water conditions, purchase test kits. There are multiple test kits that measure the pH level, nitrates, ammonia and salinity. They are all equally important. Along with the pH test kit, you might also pick up some pH buffers to get the water to the right pH for your tropical saltwater fish.

These are the most important items you are going to need, but there are other incidentals for your tropical saltwater aquarium. Pick up cleaning supplies such as a scrub brush, bucket, gloves and a fish net.

Without a doubt while at the pet shop you are going to find many other goodies for your new tropical saltwater aquarium. Make sure you need all the items and know the uses before buying them. By the way, don’t forget the fish.

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Abhishek is an avid Fish Lover and he has got some great Aquarium Care Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 105 Pages Ebook, “Aquarium Care Made Easy!” from his website http://www.Wonder-Homes.com/636/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.

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Abhishek is an avid Fish Lover and he has got some great Aquarium Care Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 105 Pages Ebook, “Aquarium Care Made Easy!” from his website http://www.Wonder-Homes.com/636/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.

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    Home Page > Home Improvement > Furniture > Starting Your Pond

    Starting Your Pond

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    Ponds can really create a relaxing mood in your home. If you can successfully start your pond, it will not end there. We still have to think about the pond maintenance. The secret to make your pond a little bit maintenance-free is to develop a healthy, balanced ecosystem that can almost take care of all the living organisms in it.

    Ponds, like aquarium needs a little nudge to get started. The good thing about a pond is that it is easier to develop a care-free ecosystem in a larger volume of water than in small tanks in our house. We can easily develop this ecosystem if we are more familiar with the Nitrogen Cycle in our ponds and what are the factors that can affect it.

    Let’s us start with water. Sometimes filling our ponds with water can introduce some dangerous chemicals into the pond. The most common chemicals found in our water are Chlorine and Chloramine. These chemicals are very toxic to fish and to the plants in our ponds. Some water may even contain heavy metals that are highly toxic to fish. So we must be informed about treating the water with some toxin-neutralizing products.

    Now that we have clean, toxin-free water, we need to start thinking about the beneficial bacterial growing in the pond and in the filter. Anaerobic bacteria will consume the organic waste products in the pond, turning them into nitrates and fertilizers for the plants.

    You have to consider pond supplies. Just think about pond filters, too. Bacteria cling to the things in your pond and to your filter media. They need a large surface area where the water can pass. You should clean the pre-filter pad frequently as it traps large particulates and debris. The filter also contain other materials on which bacteria grow, so it’s not advisable to always clean it because you won’t have enough bacteria if you’ll clean them.

    If you have established the good bacteria in your pond already, you can add your fish and your plants now so the bacteria can have something to decompose. You may notice that the water may seem cloudy. It’s all natural, no need to change the water. It’s all because of the already-present bacteria and the particulates. You can easily solve this by adding “water clarifiers” that will clump the cloudy molecules together and allow them to sink to the bottom of your pond, or get trapped in your pre-filter. The beneficial bacteria will do the rest of the work by feeding on the decomposing molecules of the cloudy water.

    You will also need to test the pond’s water quality frequently. Avoid having too much ammonia in your pond because it can be very toxic to your fish. You should also be wary of the pH level of the water. There are many readily available water treatments in case your pond will have high ammonia level or unstable pH level. The pH level should be 7.

    Electrolytes are also needed by fish, especially when they are stressed. So you should add pond salt to the water to give the fish the electrolytes that they need. If you manage to do these things, the pond can now take care of itself. As long as you don’t over feed the fish or as long as the water is not polluted with dry leaves and other debris, the pond can now support its own ecosystem.

     

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    Learn all about the tips for pond maintenance and get the best pond supplies to get you started. There are so many ways to create great looking ponds for your garden.

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    Learn all about the tips for pond maintenance and get the best pond supplies to get you started. There are so many ways to create great looking ponds for your garden.


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    Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Tips for starting an aquarium

    Tips for starting an aquarium

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    Tips for starting an aquarium

    By: Johan Idstam

    About the Author

    The author who works as a database consultant maintains a Swedish fact full web site dealing with aquariums.
    It is simply called Akvarium och Fiskar.

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    Modern aquariums are miniature replicas of Mother Nature, brought home to people worldwide. Due to environmental damages to air and water people are trying more than ever to save what is left of nature. Aquariums which you can purchase today are designed by engineers. They are made to work like real water environments. Still, the aquariums are only substitutes for nature.

    Nowadays, you can purchase tanks, which allow you to mimic the tide by raising or lowering the water. The lights vary in intensity as well to emulate day andnight. Furthermore, you have a wide array of setting that use automatic timers to allow you to change the lights intensity, as well as the water level.

    Tanks today are easier to uphold, since you can use active filtration systems to clean the water, keeping it clear of pollutants and balanced. In addition, optimal water values are easy to maintain with electronic controll procedures. Food dosage is easily maintained by usage of automated devices. You can buy aquariums in all sizes and shapes, even ones that are made to be built into the wall. With the development of new materials and technology fish tanks are safer than ever.

    With a larger tank you can stock a variety of plants and fish in a single aquarium. The tanks are ideal to simulate nature in your home. A moment in front of your calm aquarium will help you relax from a stressful day. Choosing a tank nowadays couldn’t be easier. Most modern tanks have panels made of glass which join with silicon sealants. The aquariums come in an assortment of sizes and shapes.

    How does the sealant affect cleaning, and does it affect the fish?

    Not at all, unless the sealant is less or more than 1 mm or 1/16 inches the fish and tank is fine. You want to ensure that the sealants are watertight when cleansing the tank. When you start a new fich tank you should let it rest for a couple of hours when you firt fill it with water to make sure there is no leak.

    How do I position my aquarium?
    You should position your aquarium in a firm place. It depends on the tank size; however, the water and tank capacity is calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of the aquarium. For instance, if you have 1 gallon of water in the tank, it will weigh around 10 pounds, i.e. the water alone. If you take your meassures in centimetres you want to divide your multiplied results by 1000. This will provide you with the volume in litre and wight in kilos. Remember ot add the weight of the empty aquariom to the numbers. By the time you finish multiplying and dividing a large tank, you will end ap with a number close to half a metric ton. You want to make sure your stand and the floor beneth it can safely hold the weight. It is recommended that you place large tanks on load bearing beams if you don’t have solid concrete floors. Keep the aquarium close to a wall for some extra floor strenth. However, you want to avoid placing the aquarium near windows and heaters or doors.

    How do I choose aquarium equipment?
    Initially you need the tank, something durable to place it on, a thermostat and heater and an active filter. You will also want to have plants and some decoration. The decorations may include stones, roots, substrates, etc. Make sure your decoration is safe for fich tank use before letting them in to the water. There are water conditioners to help neutralize chemicals, such as chlorine from your tap water. Furthermore, you will need a bucket and net.
    Don’t forget the food!

    How do I choose filters?
    The standard filtration systems include chemical, biological, and mechanical filters. The different types of these filters include internal, external, and the under-gravel filtration systems. The external filters are the best, but they can be a bit pricy. The under-gravel filters are not recommended; however, you can combine the under-gravel filter with an internal or external filter for good results.

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    Johan Idstam -
    About the Author:

    The author who works as a database consultant maintains a Swedish fact full web site dealing with aquariums.
    It is simply called Akvarium och Fiskar.

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    The author who works as a database consultant maintains a Swedish fact full web site dealing with aquariums.
    It is simply called Akvarium och Fiskar.

    This is a small home made aquarium filter designed for Nano tanks (under 10 gallons). The instructions to build the filter can be found online at: www.plantedtank.net and more photos an be viewed online at: picasaweb.google.com If you have any questions, feel free to email me at phil@bignews.biz


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    Starting a Marine Aquarium – the Very First Considerations

    Starting a Marine Aquarium – the Very First Considerations

    Seeing pictures of a healthy marine fish only or reef aquarium in books or on the internet, or even better, in reality at a public aquarium will cause just about anyone to appreciate the beauty and general fascination of them. Some people will wonder if they could have one, and the thought will shortly disappear. Others, however, will not forget so easily and will want to delve further into the possibility of having their own home aquarium.

    If the potential aquarist knows a friend who already has a healthy marine aquarium, then there is a source of advice available already. The friend will already have been through all the research and considerations. Often, however, the potential aquarist will want to find out for him/herself. That is very good, as the aquarium system will be understood thoroughly. Then there may not be a known marine aquarist available, so what is the first move? Dashing to the local shop and buying an aquarium and a few bits of equipment that the shop says is needed is totally incorrect.

    The first move is to follow a planning scaffold. This scaffold will be the foundation for all the decisions that need to be made in building the system. There are quite a few decisions along the way and things can get a little confusing, even to someone who is experienced in the freshwater aquarium field. The scaffold will help.

    The scaffold has to prepare the budding marine aquarist so that indicative costing on basic equipment provision can be made. Often marine aquarists have equipment laying about. This could have been caused by upgrading because the original equipment was not adequate and needed to be replaced. Money expended that perhaps need not have been.

    So, the scaffold then. The following is a list of headings and basic notes. It does not attempt and is not intended to open a comprehensive path from zero to a fantastic fish only or reef tank. What it does do is give a lead to follow on the way towards a successful aquarium. No doubt extra considerations will arise on the way, and that’s as it should be, it means the planning is working. Each stage of planning needs individual consideration, and there will often be more than one decision to make. On the way, research using books and/or the internet is useful or necessary.

    Where is it practical to site the aquarium?

    Try to choose a location away from direct sunlight, to assist with proper lighting control. There should not be heavy and/or noisy household traffic passing (reasonable traffic is acceptable). There needs to be a reliable power supply available, ie. power outlets. Generally easy access to the aquarium is required. If floors are suspended, consider floor strength – aquariums full of seawater are heavy!

    What size aquarium?

    The aquarium should not stand on ordinary furniture, but on a properly designed stand. The aquarium may need a hood. These need to be taken into account. Then the available space for the aquarium can be considered.

    What type of system?

    The system can be fish only or reef. This decision affects other later decisions. Most will opt for a reef.

    Sump or no sump?

    A sump is a small aquarium that is attached to the main one. It supplies extra water capacity to the system, and allows heaters, sand beds and protein skimmers to be kept away from the display aquarium. The sump can be beside or underneath the display aquarium. A sump on any type system is highly recommended. (If a sump is to be used, the main aquarium will need to be drilled to allow plumbing to take water from the aquarium to the sump. It is then pumped back again.) Note: if a DSB (deep sand bed) or plenum (a raised DSB) is to be employed, the sand bed area should be at least 2/3rds of the base area of the main aquarium. The sand bed should be at least 4″ deep. Consider the cost for the fine sand for the DSB. A DSB in the sump is highly recommended. Leave enough room for a partitioned area for the seawater return pump.

    Lighting?

    Is the system to be fish only or a reef? If fish only, then two marine fluorescents are sufficient. If reef then:

    Hard corals.

    Best lighting is halide, supplemented by actinic fluorescent tubes. T5 fluorescent tubes can be used (marine white and actinic equally mixed) but they do not penetrate the seawater as deeply.

    Soft corals.

    It is sufficient to use T5 fluorescent lighting (actinic and white mixed). Halide lighting can be used, however, and will not be detrimental (ensure corals exposed are light demanding varieties).

    Net seawater capacity of aquarium and sump (if used)? This is easily calculated once the aquarium size and sump have been decided. This gallonage will be excessive as, when rocks and sand are added, it will decrease. Therefore, reduce the amount by 10%. This will still not be correct, but does give a reasonable allowance for displacement.

    Seawater circulation?

    The seawater in the display aquarium will need to be circulated for the health of the inhabitants whatever they are, but particularly in a reef system. It is recommended that a minimum of two powerheads are used to achieve this. The turnover of seawater in a reef needs to be around ten to twenty times the net capacity of the display aquarium (exclude the sump) per hour, depending on coral occupants.. In fish only systems, it can be less.

    Protein skimmer?

    A protein skimmer is essential for most systems(*), in particular where there is inexperience. The device is very useful as it helps significantly towards high water quality. The protein skimmer should be sized for around twice the net seawater capacity of the aquarium plus sump (if used). Now that the use of a sump (or not) has been decided, consider whether to use a hang-on or stand alone skimmer.

    (* some mud based system designs do not require a skimmer.)

    Heating?

    The net gallonage of the system is known, so the heating need can be considered. (Note: it is best to purchase two heaters as this is a good safety feature for the aquarium inhabitants. Each heater should be one half of the total heating requirement.) In warm areas where temperatures are always above 80 deg F, the use of a seawater cooler (chiller) will replace heaters.

    Return pump?

    This only applies if using a sump. Seawater, once it has flowed to the sump, needs to be returned to the main aquarium. A pump is required for this. As a guide, the flow through the sump should be two or three times the net capacity of the system per hour. When considering the pump, remember to factor in the lift, that is the height from the pump level to the highest point that the returning seawater reaches before it enters the main aquarium.

    ‘Live’ rock.

    This is used for filtration purposes (it is excellent for this) and for the construction of the reef. It can also be used in a fish only system. Allow 1½ lbs for each gallon that is in the entire system. There are other filtration methods, but ‘live’ rock coupled with a DSB in a sump is highly recommended.

    Reverse osmosis (R/O) unit?

    The R/O unit is a tap water filtration device that removes nearly all (around 95 to 98%) unwanted contaminants. Therefore the seawater mix is at its best from the start. It is highly recommended that R/O water is always used, including the first fill of the aquarium. R/O units come in different gallons per day outputs. Remember that usually the aquarium is filled completely only once. The normal routine water change amount is 10% of the net system gallonage weekly.

    Dry salt mix?

    There are several makes on the market. If keeping a reef system, obtain one that is ‘designed’ for reefs, as additional attention has been given to calcium content etc. Fish only systems can use ‘standard’ mixes or as described above.

    Make a list.

    As each item is gone through, find out and write down the likely cost. If it is electrical, also write down the wattage (W).

    The evidence. When all items are priced, add them up. This represents a general guideline to the cost of setting up. If electrical, add up the wattage. Divide the total wattage by 1000, this will give kilowatts. The cost of electricity per kilowatt will be known. Multiply the number of kilowatts, including any fraction, by the cost per kilowatt, this is the approximate electrical running cost of the system per day. To get weekly, multiply by seven. Monthly, multiply by four. Etc. (Note: lights can be considered as being on 50% of the day. Heaters/coolers will not be on all the time, but it is difficult to determine a guideline percentage.)

    OK. The list is there and it indicates the guideline aquarium equipment cost and electrical running cost of the system. These will not be completely accurate but near enough to either dissuade the desire to have an aquarium or to go ahead. There are other costs, of course. For example, no account has been taken of the fish and/or corals that are to inhabit the aquarium. Then additional equipment, often considered later, might be obtained, such as a calcium reactor, a de-nitrator, or a canister filter etc. Maybe coarse coral sand, ½ to 1″ deep, will be used as a decoration in the display aquarium.

    Nevertheless, the scaffold will have achieved its purpose, which is to generally guide the new aquarist down a path that cuts its way through what can be a confusing beginning.

    After the scaffold, there is still plenty to be done. Many answers can be found in the listed articles on this site (http://www.aquaristsonline.com).

    Appropriate articles can be worked through one by one. Any remaining questions can go on the forum. The internet is an excellent resource for knowledge. Typing in a name, eg, marine aquarium lighting etc, into a search engine should produce a good response. Then, of course, there are books. Nothing like an hour of bedtime reading!

    Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham combined have been keeping salt water aquarium’s for nearly 35 years. Visit their site ‘Aquarists Online’ if you are interested in the saltwater aquarium hobby.


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    Starting an Aquarium Maintenance Business

    Starting an Aquarium Maintenance Business

    Getting Started…the Necessities

    Note: Use this information at your own Risk! Lantz Enterprises Inc ( www.walltanks.com ; www.kooltanks.com ) assumes no responsibility whatsoever.

    Business Licenses

    The cost of a business license is miniscule. Unless you plan to sell from a retail store, the common price in most areas is approximately per year. In addition, you will also need to obtain a special tax identification number for sales tax. In order to acquire a tax ID you must contact local and state governments to set up an account.

    2. Business Essentials

    • Business cards

    One of the most important steps when starting a new service is the purchase of business cards. Generally, for it is possible to print 5000 cards in multiple colors. Keep in mind that in order to gain a potential customer’s attention a more professional looking card will reflect on your business.

    • Letterhead

    It is very important to maintain professionalism at all times. One of the ways to do this is through your letterhead. Letterhead is commonly used for sales letters, business correspondence, sales promotions etc. First impressions are crucial to draw in potential customers. When targeting high-end customers they will expect a certain level of professionalism.

    Other marketing tools such as brochures and advertisements are essential in getting your product out to your potential clients however they are not always necessary. Normally, depending on the quality of brochure or advertisements you decide on, these can generally range in price from – 0. There are many print shops and graphic designers in your area that will take care of this.

    • Invoice book

    • Appearance

    The personal appearance of you and your employees is a very important detail. Formal business attire is not necessary, either a golf shirt or a regular t-shirt with your company name and logo should be worn. T-shirts with simple pocket embroidery will cost between and per shirt. Embroidered golf shirts will cost around to per shirt.

    • Insurance

    Do not step in the door without some type of liability or damaged property insurance. No matter how careful one can be while servicing an aquarium, accidents will happen. Nothing will end your business endeavor quicker than a lawsuit for damaged property. Normally running around per month with some variation of types of policies that are available, it is truly better to be safe than sorry.

    • Liability

    It is good business practice to have some type of basic liability insurance. It gives the customer and you a sense of security and adds credibility to your business. A liability disclaimer against fish and livestock deaths as well as aquarium leaks and other collateral damage caused by leaks is included in the “Sales Section”.

    3. Marketing

    The greatest challenge in starting an aquarium maintenance service is finding your base clientele. By allowing a local pet store and friends to pass out your business cards, you essentially turn them into free sales representatives. Positive contact made between a potential customer and others that recommend your service is truly a priceless commodity.

    • Newspaper ads

    Advertising in a newspaper is deemed ineffective and can become costly. A better approach would be to develop a catalogue or brochure, which you can personally drop off at potential businesses.

    • Display your name on the tank

    Always display your name and number somewhere on the tank. Always ask your client’s permission first then offer a free month’s service or free fish. Invest in some business cards or stickers that you can leave on or around your tanks.

    • Radio / TV Advertising

    • Keep it spotless

    Most people associate a spotless tank with a healthy environment. Don’t try to argue this point. You will be doing yourself a favor and promoting your business as a clean running service.

    4. Customer Service

    If finding new clients will be the most challenging aspect of this business, keeping them is a close second. Depending on your local area, business can become very competitive if you are not the only service provider. Keeping your clients happy involves much more than simply cleaning their aquariums. It is important to go “that extra mile” and maintaining a top-notch service. Having flexible service hours and “on call” availability is vital for success. For example, restaurants and other businesses often close at extremely late hours. During their business hours clients will not want their patrons viewing a cleaning service. Offering late or “off hours” times to your clients will keep them happy and put you above your competitors.

    On call availability is important. Customers can and will call at the strangest times so it may be important to give them access to a pager number. Not only to schedule appointments but to ask questions or report some type of emergency. From leaking tanks to major fish kills, you will be the first one your customers will call when there is a problem with their aquarium. If you are not available, they will seek out somebody else.

    5. Aquarium Location

    When examining the best possibilities for a tank location keeping a few factors in mind is crucial. You will want the tank to be in a high traffic area with maximum exposure where it is easy to maintain, has an abundance of natural light and no direct sunlight. More specifically, “Wall Aquariums” can only be installed in inside non-supportive walls.

    Ask the client to choose three areas they want to consider and do a checklist. Make sure the final location has access to power and educate the client on why some areas may need further prepping.

    6. Working with Contractors

    You will need to work closely with a contractor unless you are licensed. Contractors can be found in the Yellow Pages and range from – /hour on average. Average installation in an existing wall takes 12 hours, from nothing to fish.

    7. Financing Services

    If your customer wishes to finance the installation, payment plans are available from Finance Companies. You will be paid 100% of the cost upfront from the service and your customer owes them the balance. These businesses can be found in the Yellow Pages under “Finance Companies”.

    8. Fish Selection

    Most “non” fish hobbyists struggle with fish selection and compatibility. You must educate the client on understanding why some fish can cohabitate and some cannot. Listen to your customer and get a general idea of size and colors they want. Suggesting species will help guide them through fish selection and your professional opinion will be appreciated.

    Once you have a good idea of what they want, do some homework. Put together a list of compatible and available fish for the tank. Listing an estimated price per fish will aid the customer.

    9. Service Equipment

    Gathering all of the necessary equipment needed to run your service is simple and easy. Most of the tools required may be found in your personal equipment that you have acquired through the years.

    You will need:

    • Bucket

    • Aquarium cleaning siphon (battery operated ones work nice)

    • Algae scraper (acrylic friendly)

    • Fresh & Saltwater test kits

    • Filter media

    • Fish medication (Melafix, Pemafix, Kich-Ich, Salt)

    • Instant Ocean Bio-Spira (instant tank start)

    • Fish food

    • 100% Cotton towel

    In addition to these items, a canister filter that can be taken from site to site would be a good investment. You may also consider purchasing a portable diatom filter for ‘polishing’ your client’s aquarium water. If you do not already have these tools you may be looking at an equipment start up cost of 0 to 0.

    10. Aquarium Set-up

    • Water

    1. Fill the aquarium with pure water. Culligan works great or you may want to invest in a R/O unit (reverse osmosis).

    2. Add the appropriate amount of water conditioner to neutralize chlorine.

    3. Add a starter fish or two.

    4. Test the ammonia and nitrate levels.

    5. Anywhere from 2-5 days later pending the results of your tests you can introduce more fish.

    • Test the ammonia and nitrate levels every time the tank is serviced so that you will be well aware of any unseen problems.

    • In the case of a sudden fish fatality, test the water to see if anything has changed.

    • Lighting

    Depending on your client’s tank the ideal ‘photoperiod’ (the length of time the aquarium is lit) ranges from two to four hours for saltwater and six to eight hours for freshwater.

    If algae is a problem in the tank, a contributing factor is usually too much light. Reducing the artificial lighting time to eight hours, or a bit less may be necessary.

    Plugging the light into a timer is essential in creating a controlled environment.

    • Temperature

    Most aquarium inhabitants prefer water temperatures around 77°F. Typically, if water temperature increases above 80°F, or below 72°F, disaster is imminent. Secure the heater as directed and place a thermometer as far away from the heater as possible in an easily readable area.

    • Filtration

    Follow the instructions included with your filter for proper system set up. The filter cleans the tank water and provides vital oxygen for the fish so it must be left on 24 hours a day.

    There are three types of filtration that you must educate yourself on: mechanical, chemical and biological.

    • Mechanical filtration (the removal of pieces of debris from the water) works by passing water through a screen, a thin piece of sponge, or through a floss material.

    • Chemical filtration works by passing water through small pieces of carbon. The carbon removes molecules such as ammonia from the water.

    • Biological filtration works by certain types of bacteria that live on gravel and in your filter. These bacteria remove ammonia and nitrites from the water (see next section).

    Most filters will clean mechanically and biologically if not all three.

    11.Understanding the Nitrogen cycle (Fish make Waste – Bacteria get rid of Waste).

    • The Biological filter process:

    1. Starter fish are introduced to aquarium.

    2. Ammonia from the waste starts to build up (toxic).

    3. Bacteria start growing that use Ammonia.

    4. Ammonia level starts to drop as Nitrite level builds (toxic).

    5. Bacteria start growing that use Nitrite.

    6. Nitrite level starts to drop as Nitrate level slowly rise (much less toxic).

    7. Water is changed and Nitrate level drops.

    8. More fish are introduced.

    • These bacteria are called Aerobic Bacteria because they need oxygen. The best way to fuel them is to have well-aerated water and plenty of places to grow.

    • A new tank isn’t ready for a full load of fish because the biological filter hasn’t built up yet. Slowly adding fish during scheduled visits will aid in water quality.

    12. Water Changes

    • Cleaning frequency

    You will want to do a 20% water change every two weeks. This would be a partial cleaning. If your customer prefers less frequent visits, a 30% water change can be done every three weeks but will cost more. A major water change is only necessary if tank has not been cleaned in a long time.

    Clean your aquariums in the following order:

    1. Inside aquarium walls

    2. Decorations (rocks, plants, etc)

    3. Gravel

    4. Filter

    5. Outside and fixtures

    Cleaning the inside walls will cause particles of debris to fall on the plants, decorations, and gravel, so it’s best to clean them first. Removing the plants and decorations will cause debris to fall to the bottom, so hold off cleaning the gravel until the plants and decorations have been taken out. Also, the gravel is much easier to clean once the plants and rocks have been removed. Cleaning the inside of the tank will cause the outside to get dirty, so clean the outside last.

    Algae pads

    Start your cleaning process by giving the acrylic a good cleaning on the inside. All you need for that is an acrylic algae scraper or sponge. There are a wide variety of algae scrapers on the market, from long handled scrubbers to magnetic scrubbers. Buy your algae scrapper at a pet shop instead of the house wares department at a regular store. Although the pads may look the same, they may have a soap or chemical residue in them from the manufacturing process. A residue will not affect your kitchen sink, but it can leave a lethal film in your aquarium.

    For particularly stubborn residue on the sides, use a special plastic razor blade, as standard razors will scratch acrylic.

    Bleach

    Once the inside walls are clean, remove any rocks, artificial plants, or decorations that have significant algae growth, or are noticeably dirty. Do not clean them with soap or detergents. It is very difficult to completely remove soap, and even the smallest trace can be lethal to fish. Usually a good scrub with an algae scraper will remove the algae and dirt from rocks and plants. For particularly stubborn cleaning problems, prepare a 10% bleach solution (1 part household bleach to 9 parts water) and soak the items for 15 minutes. Scrub any remaining residue off, rinse well in running water, and let air dry to eliminate any residual bleach. Leave the rocks, decorations and plants out of the tank while you vacuum the gravel. That way none of the debris stirred up from the gravel will settle on them.

    Get a new bucket and designate it for aquarium use only. Using a bucket that has already been contaminated with other household chemicals could result in the loss of your fish.

    Siphon

    Clean the gravel next by using an aquarium siphon to vacuum away the debris into a bucket. There are several types of siphons available, all of which work essentially the same. Be sure to vacuum all of the gravel thoroughly so that all debris is removed.

    Glass and Lime cleaners

    Once the inside of the aquarium is cleaned, the hood, light, tank top, and outside glass can be cleaned. Only use cleaners designated as aquarium safe. Regular glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is toxic to fish. Standard lime cleaners are even more toxic. Use aquarium safe cleansers and rinse. Do not scrub the acrylic with paper towels or any wood by-product. Use a 100% cotton shirt or towel.

    Filter cleaning

    After doing a partial cleaning and it has been 4 weeks since you last cleaned the filter, it is time to clean it again. If you did a major water change you may want to wait until the next visit to clean the filter. The reason for this is not visible to the naked eye. The major cleaning you just performed has disturbed the bacterial colonies on the plants, rocks, and in the gravel. Fortunately a significant number of the beneficial bacteria reside within the filter media meaning you haven’t completely upset the eco-system. However if you changed the filter at the same time, you could end up with a significant spike in ammonia levels due to the lack of beneficial bacteria. For that reason, it’s wise to give the tank a rest before removing the filter and cleaning it.

    In most cases your filter has media containing carbon, ammonia absorbers, or ion-exchange resins, and should be replaced if it’s more than four weeks old. After a couple of weeks the absorbing qualities in the media have been exhausted, and there are enough bacterial colonies elsewhere to offset its removal. If you are using two filters, clean one per visit.

    Your package prices should include installation, aquascaping, filling the tank with water, fish and cleaning the aquarium for the 1st month. You should offer a 5 – 10% discount with a 6-month service contract as listed on the example “Sales Contract”.

    • Service charges

    Your service charges will be based on competition and target demographic. The charges below are suggested and should be adjusted to your area.

    Service programs include:

    • Scheduled bi-monthly visits (can be adjusted to meet clients needs)

    • Water change (see Water Changes)

    • Delivery of equipment, supplies and environment as requested by client

    • Free consultation for

    • Fish tank makeovers

    • Fish stocking

    • Equipment replacement/upgrades

    • Water quality improvement

    • Medical treatment of fish illness

    16.Sales Procedure

    Set aside specific hours or days a week for sales and stick to the schedule. During this time you will approach businesses and introduce yourself and product line.

    If the client wishes to finance a package or service, contact your “Finance Company” (see Finance Company) and you will need to complete work before you receive your payment.

    • Customer’s concerns and frequently asked questions

    Concern: I don’t have enough money right now to cover the package prices.

    Reply: No problem, the entire amount can be financed and it’s also a tax write off for commercial clients.

    Concern: I don’t want you to clean the aquarium in front of my customers.

    Reply: No problem, We can come by after business hours for commercial clients.

    Question: How do I access the tank for cleaning if it’s in the wall?

    Answer: Access will be hidden under a picture-frame style border or an access panel where the top piece swings open.

    Question: How will electricity be supplied to an in-wall aquarium?

    Answer: An outlet will be mounted inside the wall facing the aquarium.

    Question: How will the fish be fed when I’m on vacation?

    Answer: An automatic fish feeder will feed the fish for up to two weeks for freshwater fish. We also offer a vacation feeding service.

    Question: What if the tank leaks?

    Answer: It is extremely rare however it is under manufacturers warranty for one year.

    18. Tips

    These are a few handy tips and suggestions that may make things a little easier.

    1. If you have a computer, make use of it. Most of your customers will have a computer and it makes for a great way to communicate. E-mail is a wonderful way to contact your customers, send them invoices, and allow them to ask questions when you’re not in their area.

    2. Teach your clients and their employees about feeding and the filter system. Show them what to do in an emergency and teach them to recognize problems before they get out of hand. Always train at least two employees on feeding methods.

    3. Keep your customers up to date on the system and any changes you make. Never allow things to become a surprise. Clients tend to frown on sudden changes made without their consent.

    4. Invest in maintenance tools that are easy to use and which do not create a mess. Water changes with a 5-gallon bucket are an accident waiting to happen. Find methods that are user friendly and clean.

    5. Control algae. It is your clients’ number one concern. A dirty tank delivers the wrong message to your clients’ customers. Use fish species, lighting control, feeding programs and good removal tools. Just remember these tanks are acrylic and will scratch if rubbed with an abrasive material. Use 100% cotton towel instead of paper towels. Paper towels are a wood by-product and can scratch acrylic.

    6. Great customer service means being patient. Not everyone will have the understanding of aquatics that you do. Things that are simple to you may be more difficult for others to understand. Try to become well versed in basic principles; you will be explaining them over and over. Treat everyone with respect; you may be talking to one of your client’s valued customers.

    7. Fish deaths are a part of this business. Learn to be sympathetic but firm. Some fish deaths are unforeseeable, while others are preventable. Work out a fish replacement system and stick to it. Replacing a few fish for free is no big deal, replacing a whole tank is.

    8. Try to keep up to date on new products and fish species. Don’t be afraid to try new things, it’s the only way you will advance your skills. Invest in some good books and magazines; they will become useful for reference.

    Blaine Lantz owns and operates Lantz Enterprises Inc. A manufacturer of unique pet products including In-Wall Aquariums and Cat Walks.


    http://www.bizarreaquariums.com

    http://www.isabella-rose.com

    http://www.wallcats.com


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    Starting Freshwater Aquarium Setups: The Creative Aquarist

    Starting Freshwater Aquarium Setups: The Creative Aquarist

    Aquariums, as daunting as their setup might seem to be, can be rather simple, if you are able to constantly follow all important steps needed to keep everything in your fish tank intact.

    Know the responsibilities involved
    Okay, having your own freshwater aquarium setup might not be all that difficult, but you must understand what you are actually getting into before starting anything. Are you prepared to take care of your fish, to feed them regularly and to check on them regularly for any signs of sickness? Are you prepared to clean the fish tank each and every time that dirt starts to accumulate in it? Are your ready to always check the water chemistry levels of the aquarium to make sure that it’s still suitable to support life? If not, then don’t even dare to dream about having an aquarium at home.

    Do a little research
    Before you buy anything, try to do some research regarding everything involved in freshwater aquarium setups. It can help you get a general idea about the hobby in general, and also helps you construct helpful questions that you might want to ask to other more experienced people on the matter.

    Complete the items needed first before buying the fish
    It is highly recommended that you first start to make the home of your fish before even trying to buy fish. You should be able to have all the necessary equipments ready, and have your water chemistry levels regulated first. Some of the items that are absolutely necessary for your aquarium are filters, fish-compatible substrates, and some maintenance equipments such as water pH test kits.

    Choose a fish that matches the setup
    Is the fish tank large enough to accommodate many kinds of fish? Can fish survive in the pH levels provided by my aquarium setup? If I were to buy bottom-feeders, would they be able to survive in the living conditions of my aquarium setup? Keep questioning yourself until you find the perfect fish that match all of your preferences and are, at the same time, compatible with your fish tank. If you need to buy another fish, repeat the same procedure again, altering the preferences for another kind of fish.

    Be mentally prepared for the maintenance work
    Saying yes to all of the questions in the second paragraph should mean that you have understood how being an aquarist works. You should have accepted that unless all of your fish have died, or unless of your passion for the hobby has died, you cannot quit, and must do maintenance work in order to keep your tank clean and the fish and other aquatic life healthy. A good amount of diligence is required for you to keep focused on fish tank maintenance, and to prevent you from performing only half-hearted work, which can result in fatally harming your fish.

    Sandra Gaffney is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great tips on freshwater aquarium setup, visit

    http://www.myfreshwateraquariumsecrets.com/


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    Starting a Saltwater Aquarium – For Beginners

    Starting a Saltwater Aquarium – For Beginners

    STEP ONE, THE AQUARIUM ITSELF

    Most of my customers purchase aquariums that are way too small and end up upgrading in the near future anyway.  The minimum size for a saltwater aquarium should be at least 55 gallons.  Not only will you be able to keep most fish and corals in this tank, your parameters (salinity, ph, etc) will tend not to fluctuate as much in a larger tank.

    Purchase your aquarium and a suitable stand.  I recommend getting one at your local aquarium store that is designed for the aquarium.  Don’t forget, a 55 gallon aquarium weighs over 550lbs without any rock or sand in it so don’t put it on an old table.  Now that you have your tank and stand place it on a level surface in your home away from any windows where direct sunlight can influence the temperature.  Ensure the tank is sitting level on the stand.  This is especially crucial with larger tanks as you don’t want any pressure points that can split your tanks seams.

    STEP TWO, ROCK, SAND AND LIGHTING

    Purchase a quality reef sand such as Carib Sea Ocean Direct Live Sand and ensure there is at least 2-3 inches of substrate at the bottom of your tank.  This will help remove nitrates in the near future.  We will get into nitrates later on but for now just make sure you purchase enough sand.  As far as lighting there are a variety of options out there.  T5 High Outputs are a good option to keep your electric bill reasonable.  You should do a little research to find out what you will suite your needs.  You will need about 2-3 20 lb bags for every 50 Gallons to achieve this.  Now for the rock, you can use what is called live rock or you can use dry reef rock that is readily available online.  What many aquarists don’t know is you do not need to use live rock to start.  You can purchase dry reef rock for about .75 – per lb versus paying about -15 per pound for live rock.  They will both give you the same end result and dry rock gains about 10-30% more weight once it’s wet so it’s a better value.  Purchase about one lb for every gallon of water you have so for a 55 Gallon aquarium purchase 50-55 lbs of rock.  Position your rocks securely as desired and proceed to the next step, the water.

    STEP THREE, WATER, POWERHEADS AND HEATERS

    Now you need to purchase salt (I recommend Instant Ocean for its consistency), Powerheads (Koralia or Aquarium Systems Maxi Jets are a good choice).  The flow you require is a simple formula; at least 10 x the size of you’re aquarium so for example a 55 Gallon Aquarium needs at least 550 GPH (gallons per hour) of flow.  Now you need to purchase a heater, both Jager and Visi Therm are a decent choice.  They recommend what size is required (in watts) on their packaging and websites.  Purchase a large enough heater because temperature consistency is important for your livestock.  Last but not least purchase a Refractometer for around 50 dollars online.  Measuring salinity with a plastic hydrometer is just not accurate and will cause you grief.

    Ok, now that you have purchased your powerheads, heater and salt it’s time to fill up the tank with water.  One of the most commonly overlooked items is the water itself.  Take it from my experience; use Reverse Osmosis Water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) close as possible to zero.  To start you can purchase this at any water store in 5 gallon jugs or you can purchase a reverse osmosis system for under 0.  If you are serious about keeping saltwater aquariums you need this to help reduce\eliminate various algae’s and bacteria’s that can bloom in your tank and kill all of your corals.  This is the reason that most hobbyists throw in the towel.  I could go into more detail about this but just Google red slime or hair algae and do a little reading.  Install your powerheads and heater and start filling up your aquarium.  Once it is full add your salt.  It is usually about ¼ cup per gallon but check the manufactures recommendation.  Get your salinity up to about 1.024 or 1.025. 

    STEP FOUR, THE WAITING GAME

    At this point your tank is cycling.  You are waiting for little bacteria that you cannot see to magically appear out of nowhere and start consuming the ammonia.  This can take anywhere from 3-6 weeks and your light is not required.  A trick I have learned is to add a 5-10lb piece of Live Rock to speed up the cycle.  This will introduce some bacteria and life to your tank.   In a nutshell what happens is the bacteria eat the ammonia and produce nitrites (another type of ammonia), yet another bacteria turns the nitrites into nitrates which are pretty much left in your tank to accumulate.  Skimming and water changes will keep nitrates under control.  You can start skimming any time now.  It’s not critical at this point but it’s a good time to fire up your skimmer.  I have always used Coralife Super Skimmers.  They are easy to setup and maintain and do a great job of removing organic waste.  They also give you an option to setup in a sump (another article, another time) or hang on the back of your tank.  They are not pretty but the rock work can hide most of it.  All you have to do now is add top off water to make up for the water that has evaporated.  Do not add saltwater to make up for the missing water or your salinity will rise.  Salt does not evaporate into the air.  That is why we top off with fresh water.  When your ammonia test shows zero you will need to do a 20 percent water change and check it again in a day or so.  If it tests zero you can start by adding a fish.  Take it very slow at this point or your tank will re-cycle killing everything.  Add about one fish or coral once a week and take it slow.  We did not test for nitrites or nitrates because they really don’t matter at this point.

    STEP 5, MAINTAINING YOUR TANK

    So your tank is setup and you have a couple of fish and a coral or two.  At this point you should be doing at least a 5 percent water change every week to keep the nitrates down and nuisance algae at bay.  It will also replenish the calcium, magnesium and trace elements that your corals need to survive.  Purchase a good magnet cleaner to scrub the front of your glass.  If you do end up getting some algae run some GFO (granular ferric oxide) in a media bag in a filter to remove the phosphates from your water.  This will keep it from spreading and in combination with manual removal you can keep it under control.

     

    Written By Dan Annable, Saltwater and Freshwater Hobbyist (16 + years).

    Owner of Shallow Seas Aquariums and the aquarium-products.ca website in Guelph Ontario.

    http://www.aquarium-products.ca

     


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    Starting a Freshwater Aquarium Tank

    Starting a Freshwater Aquarium Tank

    It is regular knowledge that you shouldn’t bring any fish first to your home until you finish securing your freshwater aquarium tank first, and the other things needed before you can actually bring these fish into your home.

    Check the tank for leaks

    Testing your tank for leaks is very easy, you just have to fill it with water and see if the water in the tank leaks in any way. If there is none, good, but have your silicone-based sealant ready just in case there would be leaks. It is important to test it again in case you found a leak, in order to check if your sealant has sealed the leak properly.

    Decorate your aquarium

    You can now proceed to decorate your tank. There is actually no restriction for this. Just be sure that the decoration’s composition would not make drastic changes in the water chemistry. As for the substrate, choose one that can regulate the water pH level of the water effectively. Rinse all decorations first with warm tap water before finally putting them into place.

    Prepare all necessary equipments

    Make sure that each component is nicely placed and works properly. Make sure that there aren’t any broken parts that might disrupt the equipment from working properly. All electrical cords should be properly grounded, and should be fairly safe from anything that might cause them to get wet. It is recommended that you apply water conditioners at this point, to de-chlorinate the water for the early development of the much needed bacteria for biological filtration of your filters. After setting all of the necessary equipments, try to turn them all on, as if there are already fish in the tank, and check for vital errors and fix them if necessary.

    Finally, cycle the entire tank

    By letting the aquarium have the much needed beneficial bacteria. This process, known as cycling, can be done by fixing the water chemistry needed for the fishes to survive, and this, in turn, can be done by taking a gradual number of steps over time.

    Turn all lights off in the surrounding area of the fish tank, and then add a few drops of pure ammonia in the water. Check if the water has about 5ppm after 30 minutes of exposure. After one week, check the water chemistry again; if the nitrites have already started to rise, and if the ammonia levels are lower than the nitrite levels, then add more drops of ammonia. Wait again for a few weeks, and you will see the nitrate levels start growing. At this point, the tank is now ready to grow the beneficial bacteria.

    Change at least 25% of the water in the tank, to make up for the evaporating amount of water and for the loss of chemical substances. Again, wait for a few weeks until a white cloud appears on the water, and wait for it to disappear. Your tank has now finished the whole process of cycling, and your freshwater aquarium setup is now complete.

    This can take very long if done from scratch, but you can always call your local hobby store, which can provide you with a tank already thriving with beneficial bacteria. This will certainly speed things up.

    Sandra Gaffney is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great tips on
    freshwater aquarium
    tanks
    , visit

    http://www.myfreshwateraquariumsecrets.com/


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