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Fishless Cycling For Your Tropical Aquarium
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Fishless Cycling For Your Tropical Aquarium
Fishless Cycling For Your Tropical Aquarium
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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Fishless Cycling For Your Tropical Aquarium
Fishless Cycling For Your Tropical Aquarium
Posted: Aug 11, 2008 |Comments: 0
| Views: 989 |
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Once you have set up your tropical aquarium the next step is to ‘cycle’ it. This process produces beneficial bacteria that will process the waste ammonia from your fish and convert it into nitrites and then into relatively harmless nitrates. After adding fish to an uncycled tank the toxic ammonia and nitrite levels will rise to a dangerous high until there are sufficient numbers of bacteria to convert them into less toxic nitrates. In order to overcome this methods have been devised to encourage the growth of the bacteria. The traditional method is to add a few ‘hardy’ fish that will produce ammonia to encourage bacteria growth while the tank is ‘cycling’. This method is very stressful for the fish, many of which die or are damaged by the process. The toxic ammonia burns the gills and leads to permanent damage. At the end of the ‘cycling’ you are left with fish in poor condition which you may not want in your aquarium.
A better, more humane method to cycle the tank is to use a fishless cycling method. It uses household ammonia as a source, rather than live fish, and a bacteria culture obtained from a healthy tank or purchased from an aquarium supplier.
The Bacteria Starter Culture
You can obtain a starter bacteria culture by adding some gravel, filter medium or rock from a healthy, aged tropical fish tank. If you do not have a source there are commercial products available, for example StressZyme or Hagen’s Cycle. The culture will give a quick start to producing a colony of bacteria but you can also use this method without a starter culture. It will take a bit longer then to cycle your tank.
The Ammonia
Purchase some unscented, additive free 100% ammonia. Some aquarium supply shops are now selling ammonia for this purpose. If you know a chemist or science teacher they may be able to get you some pure ammonia from a laboratory supplier..
The Tank Temperature
The bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) thrive best at higher temperature than is usually used for a tropical tank so during the cycling increase the temperature to between 30 and 35 C (85-95F). When you add the fish you can turn it down again.
Testing Kit
A testing kit to check the ammonia and nitrite levels is essential to test the levels and to indicate when cycling is complete.
The Fishless Cycling Method
Extra aeration is recommended while cycling as bacteria need oxygen to grow. Increase the aeration through the tank and filter if possible. You could add an extra air stone or even use an extra pump if one is available. Add your bacteria culture, then add about a teaspoon of ammonia for a small tank. Increase this for a larger tank. Allow about an hour for the ammonia to circulate then test. The ammonia level should be between 5 mg/L (or 5ppm). Add some more ammonia if the level is too low. Leave the tank alone for a few days then test again.
At this stage the ammonia level should begin to drop and the nitrite level to rise. This means that the bacteria are doing their job of processing the ammonia. Add some more ammonia when it drops to zero to give the bacteria more to work on. The nitrite level should rise until it reaches a maximum then begin to drop as the nitrites are converted into relatively harmless nitrates. Three or four days after the maximum nitrite levels are seen the nitrite level should drop to zero. The cycling is now complete.
Change about 50-70% of the water, carefully so as not to disturb the filter or the gravel bed where the bacteria are colonised. Reset the temperature to 25°C, or the recommended temperature for your intended fish and allow the temperature to stabilise for a few hours. Retest for ammonia and nitrites and if the levels are zero you can now begin to add some fish.
It is possible after cycling the tank to add all the fish in one go but this will result in a spike in the ammonia and nitrite levels which is stressful for the fish and could cause them to become diseased. adding the fish slowly will allow the bacteria to grow to cope with the added levels of ammonia excreted by the fish. Even for a fully cycled tank it is advisable to gradually add the fish. aim to take about a month to fully stock the tank.
A fishless cycling method is more efficient and produces a fully cycled tank in a much shorter time than the traditional method of using hardy fish. It is also more humane and you will not be left with unwanted, often damaged fish, at the end.
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For more information about aquariums and fish keeping and some good deals on aquariums check out Cheap Aquariums for Sale or Cheap Acrylic Aquariums
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Freshwater Tropical Fish Wholesale Supplier – Aquarium Advice
Dec 31st
Freshwater Tropical Fish Wholesale Supplier – Aquarium Advice
Freshwater Tropical Fish Wholesale Supplier – Aquarium Advice
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Home Page > Hobbies > Freshwater Tropical Fish Wholesale Supplier – Aquarium Advice
Freshwater Tropical Fish Wholesale Supplier – Aquarium Advice
Posted: Sep 01, 2010 |
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East Coast Tranship makes the following information available to pet store trade and consumers to help you give your fish friends a better home to live! For more information, call us at (301) 782-1025 or visit the links at the bottom of this article.
East Coast Tranship, Inc. is a freshwater tropical fish wholesale supplier that sells to the pet store trade only. We are a direct importer which means you save 50 to 70% over wholesale prices.
Very small delicate fish get lost, or are often eaten by larger fish in a normal sized aquarium (30-125 gallons.) But, in a small 5-10 gallon tank, sitting on an office desk, there really are a large variety of small freshwater tropical fish and invertebrates that can be added to make a display that’s every bit as interesting and aesthetic as a big tank.
Here are some interesting freshwater tropical fish wholesale additions for the smaller tanks. Most do well in a planted tank.
Fork Tail Rainbows – Popondichthys furcata (Indonesia code 4764) average 1″
Fork Tail Rainbow
The rainbowfish found in river systems east of the Great Dividing Range of Queensland Australia are schooling and do not do well or show off their best colors if kept singly. Your freshwater tropical fish wholesale tank should include at least six individuals from the species.
The tank can be well planted along the back and sides, but leave plenty of open area as these fish are lively swimmers and require lots of swimming room. Use drift wood and bog roots only sparingly as they tend to acidify the water. A good plant to use is the java moss as it is native to the region and can also serve as a spawning medium.
Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid – Apistogramma cacatuoides (Indonesia code 4003) Average 1-1.25″
Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid
Apistogramma cacatuoides is a species of South American cichlid fish usually known under the common name cockatoo dwarf cichlid. The cockatoo dwarf is one of the best suited cichlid species for the planted aquarium. As the male is highly territorial however, it should be kept in pairs, trios (1 male, 2 females) or harems (1 male with many females), and in the company of peaceful tank mates like tetras. Water conditions should be in the pH 6.0-pH 7.5 range.
Agassizi’s dwarf cichlid – Apistogramma agassizii (Indonesia code 4688) Average 1-1.25″
Agassizi’s Dwarf Cichlid
Apistogramma agassizii is the scientific name for the Agassizi’s dwarf cichlid, a fish that occurs in many southern tributaries of the Amazon river. Male Agassizi’s dwarf cichlids are territorial by nature. Just like all dwarf cichlids the Agassizi’s dwarf cichlid requires weekly partial water changes in order to keep the nitrate levels as low as possible. The Agassizi’s dwarf cichlid grows to 4 inches (10 cm.) in length. It prefers a hardness level of 50 – 10 m/gl and a pH of 6.0.
Apistogramma pandurini (Indonesia code 4240) Average 1-1.25″
Apistogramma pandurini
A freshwater fish from South America. It is a dwarf cichlid, closely related to Apistogramma nijsseni.
Apistogramma Panduro, are sometimes referred to as Apistogramma pandurini. The name is derived from the Peruvian fish exporters who first collected the fish. Their native Peruvian waters are soft and acid with a sandy substrate. pH in their native waters is usually below 6.0. They are not fussy eaters and will adapt to most high quality foods.
Blue Killifish – Aphyosemion gardneri (Indonesia code 4629) Average 1.25″
Blue Killifish
A killifish is any of various egg-laying cyprinodontiform fish. All in all there are some 1270 different species of killifish, the biggest family being Rivulidae, containing more than 320 species. Members of this order are notable for inhabiting harsh environments, such as saline or very warm waters, water of poor quality, or isolated situations where no other types of fish occur. They are typically omnivores, and often live near the surface, where the oxygen-rich water compensates for environmental disadvantages.
Clown Killifish – Epiplathys annulatus (Indonesia code 4186) Average 1.25″
Clown Killifish
The Clown killi or Banded panchax is a type of killifish, and is not related to a clownfish. It is a rather rare fish and is marked with brown and yellow with vivid blue and red.
Most Killifish are territorial to varying degrees. In the aquarium, territorial behavior is different for every grouping, and will even vary by individuals. In a large enough freshwater tropical fish wholesale aquarium, most species can live in groups as long as there are more than three males.
Pencilfish – Nannostomus beckfordi (Indonesia code 4663) Average 1 -1.25″
Pencilfish
Nannostomus thrive in home aquaria when provided with soft, moderately acidic water, low nitrate levels and temperatures in the range of 72 degrees F to 82 degrees F. The addition of aquatic plants, including floating varieties, is recommended. The latter will reduce the likelihood of the fish jumping, which is a common occurrence for some of the species, especially N. espei and N. unifasciatus. They should be kept in schools of at least six in a freshwater tropical fish wholesale tank.
If kept in a community aquarium, the best tank mates are other species of Nannostomus, small peaceful characins and corydoras. Aquaria with strong water current, large tank mates, or swift-moving species are contraindicated. If kept in a thickly planted single-species aquarium with the above water parameters, most species will spawn, eggs will not be eaten, and the fry will be found among the floating plants. Baby brine shrimp, live or frozen, and other small-sized foods are required for both fry and adults.
Nannostomus are also avid biofilm grazers and, for most of the species, algae is an under-reported staple of their diet. In most species the males will establish small territories and defend them. Their defensive actions are usually harmless but, in two species, N. mortenthaleri and N. trifasciatus, antagonistic behavior directed at conspecifics can have deleterious results if sufficient space and plant cover are not provided.
Once acclimated to the aquarium, and provided with conditions to their liking, Nannostomus are hardy and have a firm grasp on life, often living for five or more years.
Threadfin Rainbow – Iriatherina werneri (Indonesian code 4650) Average 1.25″ – 1.5″
Threadfin Rainbow
The threadfin rainbowfish or featherfin rainbowfish: In aquaria they are usually peaceful, they live preferably in groups of six or more. Because of their long fins they should obviously be kept in a tank without fin-nippers. They breed best in tanks without other species.
Threadfin Rainbowfish do well in aquariums of 20 US gallons (76 L), however 30 US gallons (110 L) is preferred. They are best housed in a “species only” tank; meaning that the tank is reserved for the Threadfins alone. Because of their tiny mouths, they can be difficult to feed. They do well with live foods, such as baby brine shrimp, and the micrometre larval diets. They prefer water that is soft to moderately hard, slightly acidic (pH 6.0 – 7.0), and with a temperature of 23 – 29 degrees C (73 – 84 degrees F).
Marble Hatchet fish – Carnegiella strigata (Brazil Code 6117) Average 0.75 – 1″
Marble Hatchet fish
The Marbled Hatchet fish, is a small, freshwater ray-finned fish native to South America and is common in the aquarium industry. Like most Amazonian fish, the species prefers softer, acidic water. Hatchets usually occupy the top portion of the freshwater tropical fish wholesale tank and like many other aquarium species may be shy at feeding times just after they have been introduced. However, given some time and proper water conditions, they will be less hasty.
As with most Characins (see Characidae), they are omnivores and prefer a varied diet, including live or frozen food, and vegetables. However, they will not swim to the bottom to eat so all food must float. Hatchets have a tendency to be shy fish and are easily intimidated by larger or fast moving fish, so they are only appropriate for very peaceful communities or species tanks.
They will also be happier if they don’t have to share the top portion of the tank with any other fish and if kept in schools of at least three. They like plants with long trailing leaves to hide under. It is absolutely necessary for tanks inhabited by these beautiful fish to have a tight lid, as they can and will jump when startled.
Cardinal Tetra – Paracheirodon axelrodi (Brazil Code 6102) Average 0.5″ – 1″
Cardinal Tetra
The cardinal tetra, is a freshwater fish native to the upper Orinoco and Negro Rivers in South America. Given the origins of the cardinal tetra, namely blackwater rivers whose chemistry is characterized by an acidic pH, low mineral content and the presence of humic acids, the species is adaptable to a wide range of conditions in captivity, though deviation from the soft, acidic water chemistry of their native range will impact severely upon breeding and fecundity.
The preferred temperature range of the fish is 21 degrees C to 28 degrees C (70 degrees F to 82 degrees F). The water chemistry of the aquarium water should match that of the wild habitat – filtration of the aquarium water over peat is one means of achieving this.
Scarlet Gem Badis – (Singapore code 1863) Average 1″
Scarlet Gem Badis
The Badis is a small, predatory fish that feeds on tiny invertebrates. Males normally display stronger coloration and females may appear more rounded when gravid. Coloration is extremely variable and changes with mood, though typically the fins are blue and dark vertical bands are apparent on the flanks.
Galaxy Rasbora – Celestichthys Margaritatus (Singapore code 2153) Average 1″
Galaxy Rasbora – Danio
Danio are native to the fresh water rivers and streams of Southeast Asia, The Danio is an ideal species for any planted or community aquarium as they add color and will get along with other community species well. They are quite easy to care for as they will tolerate a variety of water temperatures and conditions, although they would prefer a water temperature around 78 degrees F with a slightly alkaline pH.
Danio are a small schooling species that should be kept in groups of at least 6 individuals with 8 or 10 individuals in the group being ideal. It is best to duplicate their natural environment in the freshwater tropical fish wholesale aquarium with an abundance of live plants and with some drift wood and rocks. In the wild this species lives in very calm water that is often spring fed or formed from overflows of other waterways, thus they should be kept in aquariums that do not have constant strong direct currents.
They live in shallow water in the wild that has strong direct sunlight, so they do very well in strongly lit planted aquariums, and will use heavily planted areas in the aquarium or driftwood and rocks to retreat to if they feel threatened.
The Celestial Pearl Danio is an omnivore that will eat virtually any standard topical fish foods available within the hobby. They will readily accept flaked foods, frozen preparations, vegetable or algae flakes and wafers along with freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex worms and brine shrimp. Essentially they will eat the same foods that would be being fed to the bulk of tropical freshwater species found in a tropical community aquarium.
Harlequin Rasbora – heteromorpha (Singapore code 2159) Average 0.75″
Harlequin Rasbora
All of the Rasbora species are unaggressive, peaceful, and can be kept with fish of similar temperament. They are strong swimmers and in nature prefer to be in small schools. They like to stay in the upper areas of the freshwater tropical fish wholesale aquarium. Your tank should provide plenty of open space for swimming as well as some dense plantings to serve as shelter. The water temperature should be kept around 76 degrees F.
Rasboras prefer soft water and if possible you should use a peat filter bag in your filter, (Tetras will benefit also.) They will eat flake, frozen as well as live food.
Many species of Rasbora will breed without too much difficulty, spawning freely in soft, neutral or slightly acidic water. Unfortunately Rasbora Heteromorpha is not one of these. The water should be very soft with a hardness of 1.5 to 2.5 DH and a pH of around 6.0.
For information on ordering these freshwater tropical fish wholesale for your pet store, call East Coast Tranship, Inc. at 301-782-1025.
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Tropical Fish Wholesale -
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To see the pictures of these fish visit our blog http://tropical-fish-wholesale.com/blog – East Coast Tranship, Inc. is a Freshwater Tropical Fish Wholesale Supplier that sells to the pet store trade only. We are a direct importer which means you save 50 to 70% over wholesale prices. To ask questions or place orders call 301-782-1025
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Why is 55-gallon freshwater aquarium a very popular choice in American offices?
I am having small aquarium fish at my home. in a day how many times fishes to be feed? within how many days water to be changed? how to get fishes are sick? please help me on this
Where would I find synthetic hcg suppliers? Is there a data base of producers and wholesalers of that specific product? Can I receive a response there?
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To see the pictures of these fish visit our blog http://tropical-fish-wholesale.com/blog – East Coast Tranship, Inc. is a Freshwater Tropical Fish Wholesale Supplier that sells to the pet store trade only. We are a direct importer which means you save 50 to 70% over wholesale prices. To ask questions or place orders call 301-782-1025
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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Tropical Fish Aquariums
Tropical Fish Aquariums
Posted: Oct 17, 2008 |Comments: 0
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Tropical Fish Aquariums Seeing the colorful fish glide through their silent, lush miniature undersea world, almost like dancers in a tiny ballet, can be the perfect calming influence after a hectic and stressful day of work. For this reason one often finds aquariums not only in homes but also in the waiting rooms of doctors and dentists, in physiotherapy or massage therapy rooms, hospitals and psychiatric clinics, and even prisons.
While saltwater fish and coral can be spectacular, they can also be expensive and tricky to maintain. Consider instead tropical fresh water fish, which come in a variety of colors and types and are typically very attractive in their own right. Additionally, they are normally quite inexpensive and a lot easier to keep healthy than saltwater fish.
What You’ll Need To Set Up Your Tropical Fish Aquarium
In order to set up your tropical fish aquarium, you will need an aquarium, or fish tank, gravel for the bottom, an aquarium filter, replacement filter media, a tank heater, decorative stuff for the bottom of the tank such as real or imitation plants, test kits to test the ph, temperature and other parameters and monitor the infamous nitrogen cycle, fish food, an aquarium vacuum, a fish net, a tank scrubber, a five gallon bucket, and a pasta strainer.
Be Aware of the Responsibility Involved In Owning A Tropical Fish Aquarium It is not difficult to learn how to set up a fish tank, but there are some steps you should follow. First, you be aware of a few things about an aquarium setup. A tropical fish tank is similar to having a dog or a cat when it comes to the amount of effort you will have to invest. In order to be successful at having a freshwater tropical fish tank you will have to work at it. Once a week, or at most once every two weeks, you will definitely have to perform some kind of maintenance on the tank. Most of the time this will involve changing the water. You will also need to feed your fish at least once a day. Also bear in mind that setting up and maintaining a fish tank does tend to cost some money. There are recurring expenses like the replacement of filter media, buying food, and other incidental expenses.
Choose the Size of Tropical Fish Aquariums You Want It’s always a good idea to have in mind what kind of fish you want to keep before you set out to purchase an aquarium. Some fish only grow to be an inch or two, whereas other types of tropical fish can grow as large as twelve or thirteen inches in length. Knowing what kind of fish you want will help you decide the size of the tank they will need. If this is your first time setting up tropical fish aquariums, it may be a prudent idea to start out with a ten to twenty gallon fish tank setup at first, and then and stock it with some of the smaller and sturdier species.
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Getahugetank.com offers custom aquariums,fish aquarium supplies,and tropical fish aquariums.
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I am having small aquarium fish at my home. in a day how many times fishes to be feed? within how many days water to be changed? how to get fishes are sick? please help me on this
How many fish can i put in my aquarium ?
How many fish in a 20 gallon aquarium ?
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Setting Up Your Tropical Fish Tank Correctly In 10 Steps
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Setting Up Your Tropical Fish Tank Correctly In 10 Steps
Setting Up Your Tropical Fish Tank Correctly In 10 Steps
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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Setting Up Your Tropical Fish Tank Correctly In 10 Steps
Setting Up Your Tropical Fish Tank Correctly In 10 Steps
Posted: Jul 03, 2010 |Comments: 0
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When setting up your tropical fish tank you need to consider ten specific elements. Here we cover the first five to do with the tank, heating, lighting, filtration & aeration and landscaping.
1. Tank Decisions
Decide on the size of tank you want and the material its made of. Choose from glass or acrylic, with and without metal frames. Acrylic will be lighter but tends to scratch. You will not want a tank less than 45 cm long, 30 cm wide and 30 cm deep unless you are buying it as a hospital, quarantine or breeding tank.
In calculating how many fish can be accommodated in your tank the depth is not taken into consideration as it is based on the surface area which is the length times the width. As a rule, divide the surface area by 12 to get the length in fish you can accommodate. For example a 24 x 12 x 12 (inches) tank has a surface area of 288 sq ins and will accommodate 24 inches of fish; 24 x 1 inch or 12 x 2 inch fish etc etc.
But bear in mind that you should use the adult length of the fish in your calculations. Otherwise your aquarium will become overcrowded as the your fish grow and there will probably not be enough oxygen to sustain them.
2. Heating System
Unless you are planning to stock cold water fish only, then you will need to install a heater and thermostat (separate or combined). Often a glass tube with both of them in will be used with temperature control on the top of it and a separate thermometer installed.
If you have a bigger tank the heat may not get around as efficiently so you will probably install two heaters. For a twelve gallon aquarium you would need a one hundred and fifty watt heater based on having ten watts for every gallon.
3. Lighting System
Lighting is necessary for plant growth and also shows off the fish at their colorful best. Fluorescent tubes are available for this purpose and give off less heat than other types of bulb. The lights are usually installed into your tank cover. It is not advisable to have your tank lighting on all day.
At night, in order to achieve conditions seen in the wild, you can dim the lighting or switch it off. Your ventilated cover will not only hold the lighting system but also protect the fish from household pollutants (sprays, dust, dirt etc) but keep them from jumping out and prevent loss of water by evaporation.
4. Aeration and Filtration
An air pump is not essential and if it used to get more oxygen (and therefore more fish) into your tank and it fails then your fish will die! But it can be used in combination with a filter to clean up the water. For example a filter may have a combination of a physical layer of material to collect fine solids and a layer of charcoal to chemically adsorb organic pollutants and maintain the water quality.
Air can be passed into the tank via air stones on the end of the tubing. Ensure you have a n anti-siphon valve for the air pump. Use of an under gravel filter (a biological filter) system involves a flat plate with outlets that goes under the gravel substrate and is powered by an air pump pushing air and water through the substrate which encourages bacteria to develop in it that will break down the toxic waste products from the fish, dead plants etc.
5. Tank Aquascaping
Decorations cover real rocks, synthetic rocks, real wood, synthetic wood and background panorama. They act as areas for the fish to hide and for shelter if they feel like it. Also as a resting area at night or in the day for nocturnal species. You do not want to use rocks that are limestone based as the calcium in it will produce harder water unless of course this type of water is recommended. And do not use any that appear to have metallic content in them.
Caves can be set up for cave-dwelling species by joining a few rocks together with silicone sealant or you could buy a purpose made one. Rocks can be built up to form the background or you could employ a photographic underwater scene wrapped around the back and sides of the tank to great effect. The apparatus used in your aquarium can be disguised by using your ornaments, logs and rocks.
Wash the gravel substrate before use, as well as ornaments, decorations, rocks etc and grade the level of the gravel from three inches at the back to about two at the front. Run water through the gravel until it becomes clear.
You are only restricted by your imagination when developing your aquascape. But bear in mind that you want to maintain a balance and keep a realistic amount of free swimming area for both the fish and you to see them enjoying themselves.
The remaining five steps in setting up your tropical fish tank cover water quality, aquarium plants,fitting out your aquarium, selecting healthy fish and adding fish to your tank.
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Get your free e-course from webmaster and author Paul Curran, on how to set up and maintain a beautiful aquarium, have the healthiest, happiest fish around AND learn more about steps 6 to 10 in setting up your tropical fish tank
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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Tropical fish tank setup
Tropical fish tank setup
Posted: Apr 12, 2009 |Comments: 0
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While visiting your friend you couldn’t avoid noticing a beautiful fish tank standing in the living room. You want to have one too? In this freshwater setup article I would like to help you to setup your own freshwater tank, starting with the necessary fish supplies. Equipment list: 1- Aquarium- bigger tanks will be easier to maintain then smaller tanks. In small tanks any water parameters change or drop in temperature will lead to disaster while large tank is more tolerating. 2- Aquarium gravel. 3- filter- internal, hang-on or external filter it all depends on your fish stock, fish type and tank size. 4- Filter media. 5- Fish net. 6- Fish food. 7- Heater. 8- Other decorations such as rocks, fake plants, woods etc….9- Aquarium test kits- ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate….10- Aquarium vacuum- very important stage while changing water. 11- 4-5 gallon bucket- use to change water. 12- Water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramine.
First thing before entering the hobby is the need to understand that fish are animals just like a cat or a dog and responsibility comes along, responsibility expressed by the need to perform water changes once a week, feeding the fish on daily basis and spending money on them (food, media, and medicine). Before you purchase an aquarium you should do your homework and make your self a list of fish that you desire; if you will know what kind of fish you want it will be easy to match a tank. Some fish (small ones) need tiny tank while others can grow to 10-12 inches or even more and will need big tank.
After deciding what size tank you will need it is time to think where to place it, you should place it away from windows because you don’t want temperatures and light affect your tank. Sunlight that enters the room can cause to algae problems and affect the temperatures it will be smart to avoid it. It is also recommended to place your tank on a massive stand that will be able to hold the tank weight, to know your total tank weight you just need to multiply gallon tank 10 times, For example 100 gallon tank will weight 1000 pounds (including water), and 20 gallons tank will weight approximately 200 pounds. Wash out your tank with water only, using chemicals or soap can poison your tank, same thing with your gravel. Be sure to wash it with water only in order to remove dirt, do the same with other decoration such as rocks and fake plants. Now it is time to place your gravel in the tank, after everything stands where it’s suppose to stand it is the right time to fill your tank with water. Place a plate on the gravel while adding water in order to avoid messing the gravel, direct the water flow onto the plate carefully. While adding water add your water conditioner, after the tank gets near to the top water level you can place your plants and other decorations. Now it is time to hook up your filter and other equipment, check your tank lights and install your heater without plugging it in till the thermostat has adjusted to the water temperature, this process takes approximately 20 minutes and then you can plug it in.
The last step before adding fish is maybe the most frustrating step-waiting till the water is “ready”, in order to success and to setup the tank as it suppose to be you must wait until your tank has cycled before adding any fish, check your tank water with test kits in order to know when the process is done. The big moment has arrived, the smart move is to add fish slowly in order to let filtration system to built up, only add one or two strong fish from your fish list, Then wait a week and add 2 more fish, Do the same process all the time to avoid filtration crush. When you bring the first tropical fish home let the bag float in the tank for 15- 20 minutes so that the fish can become acclimated to the temperature of the aquarium water. After 15 minutes you should add some of your aquarium water to the bag to acclimate them to your PH and temperature water, you can use a cup to do so. Repeat this process after 5 minutes, now it is time to take the fish out from the Bag with your fish net do it carefully to avoid any stress to the fish, sometimes stress can lead to disease, there is no need to feed them on their first day in the tank. Now it is time to lay down and enjoy your fish tank, but never forget, if you want your tank to look good as it looks right now you need to perform water change at least once a week, Along with that you also need to test your water once a week.
For more free information visit us at: Aquariumpassion.com
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Rotem Gavish is a fish expert.Dedicating his life to this beautiful hobby, his expertise is in all related to aquarium world such as tropical fish,marine fish, reef tanks, plants and invertebrates. Rotem established his site with the vision of sharing tips and free information.
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How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium
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How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium
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How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium
By: Paul Curran
About the Author
Paul Curran is webmaster at Fresh-Water-Aquariums-Guide.com and provides a care information system for fresh water aquariums.
Get your FREE E-Course on how to set up and maintain a beautiful aquarium, have the healthiest, happiest fish around AND learn more about how to have the best tropical freshwater aquarium
(ArticlesBase SC #2382161)
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – How To Solve 10 Big Issues When Setting Up A Tropical Freshwater Aquarium
1.The Tank?
Whether you have an acrylic or glass tank it must be sterilized before you can start putting anything in it. And you must have a hood/cover/canopy to reduce water loss by evaporation, stop the fish from jumping out and it holds your lighting system
2.What About Heating The Water?
You need to maintain the water temperature by means of a heater and thermostat combination. For tanks greater than 3 feet in length you may need a couple of these to ensure an even temperature throughout.
Thermostats can be either internal or external to the tank and must be adjustable by the aquarist. A thermometer will be needed to check the temperature
3.How Much Lighting?
You will need sufficient lighting to encourage plant growth but not too much giving you an algae problem. Use fluorescent tubes or tungsten lighting or a combination of the two. Experiment to achieve the desired result. Lighting the aquarium for ten to twelve hours per day is common
4.What About Filtration and Aeration
A filtration unit (internal or external) to the tank will remove suspended material from the water. An air pump attached to an air stone can aerate the water and boost the oxygen supply along with the small amount from the plants; although many do not see mechanical aeration as compulsory if the aquarium is properly
5.What Do I Put In The Tank?
The bottom of the tank is covered with washed gravel substrate arranged so the level rises up towards the back and deep enough for aquatic plants to be rooted. Rocks can be placed to disguise corners.
Tall plants behind bushier species will give the impression of depth. The front and foreground of the tank will be fairly open for the fishes to swim around in
6.How do I Fill The Tank?
Install the heating and filtration system. Pour water into a cup on the bottom of the tank and continue till it the tank is two thirds full. Insert your plants, top up, switch on heating, lighting and filtration systems. Now run your aquarium for at least two weeks to establish your plants and the biological system before adding your fishes
7.How Do I Stock The Aquarium?
Before you add your fishes calculate how many fish you can accommodate based on the surface area of the tank. A rough guide for tropical aquarium fish is to allow 12 square inches per one inch of fish. For example, if your tank’s surface area is 408 square inches then you could have 36 one inch fish or 18 two inch fish etc.
And also take into account the fishes particular swimming and behavioral characteristics. Introduce the fish into the tank by keeping them in their plastic bag till the water temperature equalizes that of the aquarium. You could add some of the aquarium water to the bag. Then release the fish into its new environment
8.Is The Diet And Feed Correct?
Generally speaking fishes do not have specific dietary requirements though its is always best practice to do a bit of research and determine if a particular species your have has any. Dried foods area available in a wide range of forms; flakes,pellets, tablets and powder.
Live foods can also be introduced to give a varied diet. Included in this category are insect larvae, micro-worms, freshwater crustaceans, and brine shrimp young. If vegetarian diets are needed use lettuce, oat flakes and chopped up spinach. It is important to make sure that the fishes only eat what you feed them in a few minutes. Otherwise the excess food will rot and pollute the water
9.What Maintenance Do I Need To Do?
Daily: Check on temperature and how the fish look. Weekly: Measure water quality (nitrite, nitrate, ammonia, pH), prune aquatic plants, remove debris from floor, clean and/or filter media. Monthly or longer: Partial water changes of 10-20% of the tank volume with the water at the same temperature and make up if possible. Algae on the tank front can be scraped off. The sides can be left for the fish
10.What about Illnesses?
Isolating fish is a great way to reduce the chance of illness occurring. Before you add new fish to your community, quarantine them or him/her in an isolation tank for a couple of weeks so you can see if they were bought with an illness established. Make the tank comfortable with plants and substrate just like the main tank and maintain the same conditions.
There are some illnesses you need to know about. Mouth fungus – cured by antibiotics. White spot – tiny white spots on the fish. Raised water temperature, salt treatment and medications are potential solutions. Fin rot – this infection happens after physical damage and is cured by antibiotics in clean water.
Fungus – appears like cotton wool on the skin. Cured by salt baths or methylene blue or malachite green treatments. Use your isolation tank for treating your ill fish from the main tank
So there you have it, 10 issues you have conquered in setting up your tropical freshwater aquarium.
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Paul Curran is webmaster at Fresh-Water-Aquariums-Guide.com and provides a care information system for fresh water aquariums.
Get your FREE E-Course on how to set up and maintain a beautiful aquarium, have the healthiest, happiest fish around AND learn more about how to have the best tropical freshwater aquarium
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The subject of freshwater aquarium substrate is often overlooked during the setting up of a fresh water aquarium. If the wrong choices are made then the effects can be devastating for the whole environment, including the fish. This article identifies 7 tips to ensure things will not go wrong.
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Paul Curranl
Home and Family>
Petsl
Aug 07, 2010
Freshwater Aquarium Grass To Be Recommended For Your Aquarium
There are many well known plants that provide a range of freshwater aquarium grass types that you may want to place in your aquarium and they are pretty cheap to buy. Some of those available are described here.
By:
Paul Curranl
Home and Family>
Petsl
Jul 25, 2010
Put These 3 Freshwater Fish In Your Community Tank
Three more freshwater fish in your tank are described here; the Dwarf Pencil Fish the Green Rivulus and the Hunchbacked Limia. Discover their behavioral patterns, colors and any unusual physical features, temperature and water requirements, feeding likes and dislikes and optimal breeding conditions.
By:
Paul Curranl
Home and Family>
Petsl
Jul 18, 2010
Symptoms And Treatment For Disease In Your Aquarium
Disease in the aquarium is often the result of poor environmental conditions, as this weakens the fish and makes them susceptible to disease. Here we describe four common ailments suffered and suggested treatments for fish lice, fungus, gill flukes and hole-in-the-head.
By:
Paul Curranl
Home and Family>
Petsl
Jul 18, 2010
These 3 Freshwater Fish Are For Your Tank
The Lemon Tetra, the Leopard Corydoras and the Orange Chromide are three excellent freshwater fish for your Tank are described here. Discover their behavioral patterns, colors and any unusual physical features, temperature and water requirements, feeding likes and dislikes and optimal breeding conditions.
By:
Paul Curranl
Home and Family>
Petsl
Jul 18, 2010
Setting Up Your Tropical Fish Tank Correctly In 10 Steps
Learn about setting up your tropical fish tank with this ten step approach. The first five steps cover the tank, heating, lighting, aeration and filtration and aquascaping.
By:
Paul Curranl
Home and Family>
Petsl
Jul 03, 2010
3 Freshwater Fish For Tank Conditions
In this article you will find out about the behavior of three freshwater fish for tank environments, what they look like, the best water conditions, how to feed them and how to breed them. The Lemon Tetra, the Leopard Corydoras and the Orange Chromide.
By:
Paul Curranl
Home and Family>
Petsl
Jun 24, 2010
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Betta splendens- The ultimate tropical fish
Nov 6th
Betta splendens- The ultimate tropical fish
The Betta splendens or by its common name Siamese Fighting-Fish is a beautiful hardy tropical fish. This Siamese Fighting-Fish is from the Mekong river basin in Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia (South-East Asia). Usually lives in shallow waters with little water movement, like Rice-Paddies. In nature, this specie’s males have shorter fins that those we usually see in shops, these are called by the Thai “Plakad” (meaning- “Fighter”), and are used in Thailand for show-fights (just like roosters). Although their fins are short, they are still bigger than those of females. These males are more aggressive than long-finned males, but they are less susceptible to infectious diseases and have faster ability to recover after fights. Of the long-finned strains, there’s the most known Veil-tail, which are the commonest in shops. More appreciated tail forms are the Round-tail, Fantail, and Delta-tail. All these tail forms can appear in two fin forms- Double-tail and Comb/Crown-tail. Double-tail has a long dorsal fin, and their caudal fin is variably divided to two lobes. Comb-tail has fin rays that grow variably longer that the fin’s soft tissue, resembling a comb. Crown-tail is a Comb-tail with equal and symmetric lengths of fin rays and soft tissue. Another famous strain and probably the most famous is the Half-moon. This is a fin form, appearing mostly on Delta-tails, in which the caudal fin is spread to 180o, while flaring. Aside of it, the fish must have other criteria to be considered as a true Half-moon.
Aside from tail forms, these fish come in all colors and patterns. In nature, they have a black body, with turquoise/blue/steel-blue iridescent on it, and red washes on it fins. The first color strain produced was called Cambodian, with clear-pinkish body and red fins. By today, with further understanding the fish’s genetics, we have Solid colored fish, in the colors of Red, Non-red Yellow, Black, White, Orange, Royal-blue, Steel-blue, Turquoise and the newest- Copper. Then comes the Bi-colors, mostly Cambodians and Iridescent with red or yellow washes on their fins. And along side with these, come the Tri-colored, also known as Multi-colored, mainly containing the colors- Clear + Iridescent + Red. Patterns have also developed, from the “solid” regulars, we’ve got to Variegated-fins (the most appreciated is the known Butterfly), and Marbled (which can change their color patterns throughout their life). Every breeder give different names to the strain lines they create, one of these, most known, is the Mustard-Gas created by Jude Als. By looking at all the colors, patterns and tail and fin forms, it is easy to see why this fish is probably one of the most known and popular freshwater fishes. The betta is a carnivore fish in its natural habitat; it eats mainly insect larvae, small crustaceans and other aquatic invertebrates. The fish is mostly accustomed to dry commercial foods, so will have no problem with these foods- make sure it is mainly meaty foods. In out fish tank the fish is mainly calm, and might be shay in community aquariums at start, once settled it will get active. Males and females are aggressive towards each other. In long-finned cultivated strains, females tend to be more aggressive than males. Males will always fight over territory and might kill one another. The betta is durable to low water conditions, though; long-finned strains are more susceptible to high amounts of nitrogen compounds in water and will quickly suffer from fin-rot, dropsy and other illnesses. In large aquariums these fish need good filtration system with low to moderate water flow. If water flow is too strong, the fish will settle in a spot where flow is lowest and will hardly move from it. When kept in a jar, water should be changed every week- the amount of water changed, depends on the jar’s volume. Some people buy dry leafs of a tree called Ketapang/Indian Almond-tree (Terminalia katappa) and insert them to the fish’s jar. It is said to help preventing infectious diseases and getting the fish into breeding-mood. When feeding these fish, avoid over-feeding, as these fish tend to gorge itself, which might end up in a bloated fish suffering from deadly incurable Enlarged-leaver.
This Betta species is a Bubble-nest builder. There are many ways to set up a breeding aquarium for the pair, and not enough room to supply details on them all. There are two popular ways to breed the Siamese Fighting-fish- in an aquarium specially set for the pair, which should be at a volume of at least 20 liters (5.2 gallons), and the Thai-way, which uses large Plant-pots. In any of these ways, the fish must be conditioned well before introducing the pair. Conditioning is made by feeding the fish live or frozen foods about two to three times a day, and making frequent water changes. Conditioning should take about two weeks at least, and can take up to one month, depending on the food quality and water temperature. The breeding set-up, in both ways, should contain lots of hiding places for the female, and some floating plants for the male to build its nest. If floating plants aren’t available, you can use a halved Styrofoam-cup. Water temperature at the breeding set-up should be in the range of 28-30oC (82.4-86oF/ 301-303oK), and it is advisable to place a tight fitting glass-cover on top, so that the air above water will be hot and humid. Using an aquarium, the female is usually placed in a clear chamber, so that the male can see her, but can’t touch her. Once the male has built his bubble-nest, he will start courting the female. For those of you, who placed the female in a chamber, release her only after she presents the following signs- swimming with and toward the male (instead of trying to escape), showing white vertical bars on her body (instead of two black lateral lines, which display fear), pacing her head down and swimming towards the male by moving her body from side to side. The last sign usually appears after the female is released, so seeing it isn’t obligatory before introducing the pair. Mostly, after the female is released, the male will attack her- do not panic, these fish like it rough, and this is why hiding places are very important. Once the male and female are ready to spawn, the female will follow the male under the nest, where he will wrap her with his body. These first embraces are usually called Test-embraces, and are used to confirm that there is a match between the male and female.
After several embraces, the male will freeze in the embraces, and the pair will stay still for a couple of seconds. Afterwards, the male will swim down to collect the eggs, while the female usually remains frozen and floats to the surface. Some females will collect the eggs after “awaking” and will place the m in the nest, others simply eat them. Once the male collects the eggs, he will coat them with saliva, and places them inside the nest. After mating is complete, the male usually attacks the female and chases her away; this is a good time to remove her from the breeding set-up. The male will tend the eggs, and the larvae that will hatch within the next 24-36 hours, picking up any egg and fry that will fall from the nest and placing them back in it. After about 48 more hours, the fry start swimming freely, at this point, remove the male as well. Once the male is out, it’s time to insert an air-operated sponge-filter (the filter must run for about two weeks before spawning in a well established aquarium!!!) and to feed the fry. First foods which are suitable for fry as small as these, are Infusorians (mostly Paramecium), Green-water, Powdered dry foods and liquid fry foods. Another way to supplement the fry’s diet is by using Java-moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri) in the aquarium (this plant is also essential as a hideout for the female!)- This plant provides a substrate for a rich Micro-fauna of microscopic creatures, which supply addition to the fry’s diet. The fry should be fed about two to three times a day, be careful not to over feed them, as ammonia is the second fry killer (first is hunger). Once the fry are about a week old, you can start adding Micro-worms to their diet, and after another week adding BBS (baby brine-shrimps). Make sure you change the water frequently, using a gentle siphon. Siphon the bottom to take out any uneaten foods, and turn the hose to a bucket; so that any fry siphoned, will be found and returned to the aquarium. It is important to return the fry to the aquarium before adding the new water in. Adding the water should be done gently, you may use an air-hose to do that. Mostly in about 1.5 cm (0.59 inches) of size, you will be able to tell the males apart; their ventral fins will look pointier and larger, and they are mostly more aggressive. The fish usually reach sexual maturity in an age of about 3 months, and then can be moved to their new owners.
for more free information visit us at: Aquariumpassion.com
Rotem Gavish is a fish expert. Dedicating his life to this beautiful hobby, his expertise is in all related to aquarium world such as tropical fish, fish tank, marine fish, plants and invertebrates. Rotem established his site with the vision of sharing tips and free information.
My new 40 gallon acrylic planted aquarium. Remodeled with more eco-complete and six more plant species. Upgraded to T5HO lighting. Type – Fresh water tropical planted aquarium Tank – SeaClear 40 Gallon Acrylic Filter – EHEIM Classic 2213 Canister + Hydro Sponge II on the intake Heater – EHEIM Jager 100W Air pump – Rena 300 Lighting – AquaticLife T5HO 36″ 2x39W Fresh Water Substrate – Eco-complete x3 Plants – Anubias hastifolia, Anubias Nana, Java Moss, Java Fern, Anacharis, Lilly, Cabomba caroliniana “Green Cabomba”, Cardamine lyrata “Chinese Ivy”, Hygrophila difformis “Water Wisteria” Water Spirit, Dwarf Baby Tears, Pellia, Lloydiella, Myriophyllum Tuberculatum (red), Ludwigia Ovalis Fish – Soon will have some.
Video Rating: 4 / 5
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Tropical Fish And Its Aquarium Maintenance
Oct 8th
Tropical Fish And Its Aquarium Maintenance
Tropical fish includes fish around the world living in tropical environments including salt water and fresh water species. They are popular fish in aquariums because of their bright colors. Tropical also refers to tropical climate wherein the climate is warm or moist all throughout the year integrated by abundant vegetation.
Aquarium is an enclosed clear-sided container made of high strength plastic or constructed glass for keeping or raising animals and plants for research and observation. The ecosystem of the species is copied on smaller scale controlling environmental factors.
Tropical fish being put in the aquarium should be properly taken care of by regular monitoring of the fish and aquarium conditions by checking the waters for bacteria, parasite or fungi occurrences. There are ways on how to determine if the tropical fish are sick.
-Fish scales inspection. Examine for any discoloration, growths or wounds. Scales that is missing is a fighting indication.
-Observation of the fish respiratory rates. Slower or faster rate than normal is a sign of problem.
-Fish eyes clarity checking. Blood or cloudiness should not be present.
-Observation of the fish abnormal behavior such as unusual swimming pattern or sluggishness.
-Veterinarian consultation for any fish abnormalities being observed.
Aquarium serves as the new habitat of your tropical fish so it should be maintained regularly. The procedures are easy protecting the fish and plants lives.
-Regular checking of the tank to ensure that dying or dead fish is not present.
-Observation of all the fish individually for behavioral patterns familiarization so that it is easier to determine a sick fish in the future.
-Feed your fish with one-day intervals using diet variations.
-Replace the evaporated water on the tank with dechlorinated water.
-Once a week, removed 5 to 10 percent of the tank water replacing it fresh dechlorinated water. Unwanted chemicals in the tank are diluted helping the tanks internal environment similar to tap water.
-Algae scraping from the walls of the tank done once a week.
-Filter pads checking every two weeks cleaning or replacing them if necessary.
-Water testing done every two weeks. Water change is done after one day.
-Ammonia, nitrate, pH levels or nitrite checking done every two weeks.
-Drain off the debris from the gravel done once a month.
Always keep track the chemical contents of your aquarium and schedule maintenance.
This content is provided by Low Jeremy and may be used only in its entirety with all links included. For more information on tropical fish aquarium maintainence, please go to http://aquarium.articlekeep.com
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Keeping Your Tropical Freshwater Aquarium Clean
Oct 2nd
Keeping Your Tropical Freshwater Aquarium Clean
Keeping your receptacle far-reaching is the real challenge of many owners. They have stable up, but oh dear, there are issues arising that they just didn’t expect!
Dirty Water
Tired of dirty water? So is your fish.
Try a endowment filter, which literally makes the tank midpoint absolutely self cleaning. sensible filters using chemicals that get rid of dirt, odor, discoloration and straight general impurities. The worst matter about a power filter is that you postulate to change the filter itself every 3-4 weeks – if you importance handle this, then you’re predominance for a treat. The filters are usually disposable, so there’s no annoy again no leaning over a sink for hours hoping that existing gets
clean.
Algae blooms ruin supine the most beautiful tank, and your eyes seem to always go to it, even if you want to adore the beautiful fish that are in scene of you. The easiest, most practical, and quickest conclusion is simple. Buy a Plecostomus. Often called a Pleco is a very good algae eater, this fish isn’t going to win any beauty competitions any time soon – but he will keep your tank clean of algae. Plus, this exposed algae eater has a shapely personality!
If you don’t have an algae eater, then you’re going to have to remove true yourself, by hand well more with a scrapper with a sponge.
There are numerous apparatus you incumbency use, and they vary by cost.
Remember that algae thrives in the sun! If you have a container that’s in sunlight now an hour or two a day, it’s agility to inaugurate more algae then if the water were in a shaded area the entire time.
Strong Scents
Change your extract more regularly to ensure that this doesn’t happen, because it can hurt your fish tank, and exterminate your fish if substantive goes untreated. They simply can’t live command that sort of environment.
Unclear Water
This is a big done as a result of overfeeding. Don’t give your fish additional inasmuch as what they can eat in 3-5 record imprint exclusive sitting, and separate feed them 2-3 times a day. This should stop the issues.
If it doesn’t, shot using bottled drinking water or distilled water. You power buy it by the gallon mammoth at emphatically grocery stores and it several costs about 50-70 cents per gallon.
Change The moisten At antecedent Every Two Weeks
If not every week, only about 20% of the dampen has to be removed, also most people use a convey. Basically, you constitute sole effectuate of a hose clout the tank, put the other to your lips, again suck.
Once water starts flowing, entrench it in a bucket further let some of it filter out. Then, simply replace the water. Once a month, you’re going to want to clean your aquarium receptacle – part of the holiday many connections hate.
Using a sponge, you can scrub the insides of the aquarium glass gently to get anything that’s stuck on crackerjack off. Some connections good a scraper too, but this will scratch acrylic aquariums.
Take out lump decorations and drown them hot water also and salt, then scrub them with a sponge until clean. acquire not, and I repeat, do not use subdivision soap at full-dress. The residue will kill your fish very quickly.
Many people use a gravel vacuum to clean the dirt and old food that’s been apart down there. qualified are various sizes in that various tanks, and you should always happen the method that came camouflage the gravel vacuum to use it properly.
When You Refill Your Tank
When refilling your container with water, remember to keep the temperature the same owing to the wet your fish needs. Using a scullery plant and a garden hose attachment, you incubus get the water useful and go from tank to tank (If you trust more whence solitary) and produce sure that
everyone is happy.
But remember that tap water wasn’t made for fish keeping. Heating a 10 gallon bucket of distilled water is often a good option then using tap water!
Hello my name is Jason McParland and I am a Freshwater Aquarium Enthusit with over 15 years experience of freshwater aquarium maintenance.
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Tropical Aquariums – How To Select Fish That Can Thrive
Aug 20th
Tropical Aquariums – How To Select Fish That Can Thrive
Tropical Aquarium fish
There are two kinds of tropical aquarium fish, salt water and fresh water. You would have to have salt water with temperatures and pH levels regulated for salt water fish and for fresh water fish you will need purified water that is fresh. Both these fish would need bacteria that keep the aquariums clean.
So do not mix the two kinds of fish, because if you put fresh water fish into salt water they will die and vice versa too. So remember that you can keep only one type of fish in the aquarium that is suitable for it. For salt water fish they need a certain level of salt in the water which is required for them to move and to breath, without this they would not survive and would die of suffocation. Living rocks or rocks that have good bacteria present have to be put into salt water aquariums. Leave the rock in the water for at least two months for the cycle of the bacteria to go on and then put the fish in. Once the bacterium is built up, set the filter up and then put in the fish.
Fresh water tropical aquariums
The fish that live in fresh water tropical aquariums need fresh water that is clean with no ammonia and chlorine in it. The aquarium for fresh water fish should be set up at least a month before you put in any fish as this will allow the bacteria to develop and keep the ammonia levels as low as possible. Ammonia is not good for the fish and creates a problem with the breathing of the fish and this kills the fish. If the fish remain at the top of the tank you will know that the level of ammonia is high and the fish are struggling to breath. What you should do when this happens is to clean out the filter in some of the water taken from the fish tank separately and put it back in place after a day. The water will then be better. Another thing that you should do is to get yourself a water testing kit so that you can see the level of the balance and the nutrients in the water. These kits do not cost a lot but are very essential.
Having a tropical aquarium in the house is definitely a wonderful piece of decoration to have, but make sure that you know what goes with this by way of maintenance of the tank, the fish and the plants. Remember that fish are living creatures and have to be cared for.
Abhishek is an avid Fish Lover and he has got some great Aquarium Care Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 105 Pages Ebook, “Aquarium Care Made Easy!” from his website http://www.Wonder-Homes.com/636/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.
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